At first, the beer scene in Germany may feel like you’re drowning in pils, hundreds and hundreds of attempts at making the same sort of lager with varying degrees of success, rarely ever exceptional.
The Germans love a lager, but beyond that there lies a tradition of varying distinct regional styles, some of which remain almost dormant, waiting to be revived. In order to experience these in their intended glory you often must visit the regions specifically.
Altbier, Kolsch and Dortmunder in the North West, Wheatbeer, Maibock and Dunkelweizen for Bavaria, Gose and Berliner Weisse in Saxony, Rotbier, Rauchbier and Kellerbier in Franconia are just a few examples. This makes Germany feel more distinct in its traditions than England which may have Scotch ale in Scotland, nut brown ale in the North and more cider drinking in the South and West, but has a more standardised range you can find in most pubs.
If you’re not keen on pils, don’t worry, there will still probably be something for you.
Similarly, the brewing scene has developed differently regionally, with huge concentrations of breweries in certain areas over others. Bavaria seems to have a brewery in every town as a badge of honour, while cities such as Bamberg have nine breweries, exhibiting their obsession with beer.
Socially, pub-going does not mean quite the same thing as England, as it is generally more communal and there is an expectation of social interaction in a lot of places. The forwardness can be surprising as a buttoned-up English person, but it is refreshing to see people of different generations speaking to each other as equals and not dividing their social lives between one another. This can spill over into gregarious bouts of singing and joviality but they find a way of doing it without it feeling loutish or nationalistic.
If you wish for a more English style pub atmosphere head to a ‘Kneipe’ rather than bierhalle or a brauhaus, and you’ll find a smaller, cosier drinking hole. It’s still the case that a lot of these places are resolutely working class and unvarnished in their approach, which may be a slight surprise to some people used to more gentrified English pubs. Darts is especially popular in Germany, and these places may also allow smoking.
The price for a Beer in a German pub used to be a strong point. You can still buy a large beer in most places for 3 euros 50 cents or less, but this is creeping up, as is the tendency for 0.4l servings, as places work on their margins. As per usual, visit working class haunts and fewer corporate places if value for money is a key concern.
It’s heartening to spend time drinking in Germany which is a crucible of tradition and obsession when it comes to brewing. They have managed to stay some of the deleterious effects of globalisation through legislation and preserved many of their smaller breweries as a consequence.
Their parochialism and refusal to accept the merits of other styles is borne of pigheadedness, and this is one aspect you may find frustrating, but generally, going hunting for good pubs in Germany is an easy and extremely enjoyable task.
Ratings Key (0-10)
A: Choice and/or quality of drinks
B: Style and décor
C: Atmosphere and feel
D: Amenities, Events & Community
E: Value for money
F: The Pub Going Factor
Bars marked (*) will take you to our full profile write-up!
|Papa Joe’s Jazzlokal||Cologne||8||10||10||8||6||10|
|Schreckens – kammer||Cologne||8||8||8||7||7||8|
|Sunner Im Walfisch||Cologne||7||8||8||7||5||8|
|Papa Joe’s Biersalon *||Cologne||7||10||10||7||6||9|