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Possibly the least fashionable of the central Cologne Brauhauses, Peters is entirely unconcerned by such things and succeeds by offering a really atmospheric beerhall and arguably the best Kolsch going.

Whether dining or just drinking, the venue never seems like you’re there doing the wrong thing or there at the wrong time. It’s all communal, and surprisingly airy considering the traditional décor. There are some stylish windows lining the frontage and the place has an understated class about it, the piece de resistance being an impressive stained glass ceiling feature which is probably the take home memory we have of the interior.

Service is a little less brusque than other places,. Why the Kobes seem to act like English bus drivers is a mystery. Maybe thyroid problems in their middle aged bodies? Trouble with the wife?

Don’t expect a particularly lively young crowd outside of festivals, as most of those people have gone to Fruh, or just not bothered with a traditional German Brauhaus at all – they aren’t especially geared towards pure out and out night drinking after all, and Peters is no different, closing relatively early by the standards of a Kneipe or a club.

The Kolsch is crisp, clean, with a terrific refreshing flavour that speaks of the pure freshness. Cologne is a great example of a city where great tasting beer is available unpasteurised on site. The style may be the most uniform of all but it really does taste great. Peters beer is at standard price for the city centre and as usual served in the classic 0.2l Kolsch style glasses. Service isn’t as frenetic as Fruh as it doesn’t need to be, so you don’t feel like a Kobe is always on your shoulder, but likewise your glass will get replaced with another beer unless you put your beer mat on top in quick order.

Peters Brauhaus should be an essential visit on your tour of Cologne’s Kolsch hauses, because it represents the near pinnacle of the beer style, and is a very charming and atmospheric venue. Don’t rely on it for any partying or youthful antics, but appreciate it for what it is – a stately and beer hall.