Sweden
Our Guide To Sweden’s Best Pubs & Bars
No discussion of Swedish bar culture can begin without acknowledging the effect of the temperance movement. Aw, teacher, do we have to? Yes.
Emerging from the enlightenment (where rich liberals decided they were best placed to order the sinful working classes around), the temperance movement saw alcohol as the scourge of society, forming a major movement and voting bloc aimed at achieving abstinence via the prohibition of alcohol.
Since 1905 the government has had a monopoly on alcohol sales and even today, Systembolaget, the state monopoly is the only place in Sweden you can buy alcohol above 3.5% strength outside of restaurants and bars. This has been in place since 1917. Alcohol is sold without advertising, though in the past signs actively discouraged you from entering and making purchases.
In 1922 a national referendum proposing a total ban on alcohol lost, but only by 1%.
All of this means that indigenous Swedish bar culture, which by all accounts was reasonably lively in cities was destroyed by Lutheranism, the enlightenment and various alcohol abolitionists.
A further quirk is that no bar in Sweden is permitted to serve alcohol unless they also cook warm food, leading to bizarre scenes, such as Ivan's Pilsnerkafe in Gothenburg, where a kitchen is happily steaming away on one side of the room while clubbing goes on at the other end.
Being without a native pub culture has led to a very peculiar scene in the present day. Restaurants and bistros turn into de facto pubs later on, where you can linger and socialise. In the neighbourhoods local pizzerias take the place of pubs, while the occasional very greasy spoon location, known as a "Sunkhak" (sunk pubs) tries to bend the restaurant format into a pubbier one. Sweden has had to import pubs too. Irish and UK theme pubs play a bigger role in this country than almost anywhere else in Europe, not supplementing their bar scene but more filling a void where it used to be. An Anglophile attitude prevails all the same, and they have slowly turned these kind of bars into less tacky, themed ones. Due to the excellent English-speaking skills this is one of the easiest places to start up a conversation in a bar in Europe, barring perhaps Ireland.
There is only one exception in the country, Ölhallen 7:an in Gothenburg which by a complete quirk survived this all. They were given special dispensation by the governor to sell alcohol without a need to serve food.
The effects of this religious and moralistic phenomenon are still being felt today and no doubt will continue to for decades to come. In the 1990s movements arose like the Straight Edge scene, showing the propensity for Swedes towards drastic responses to alcohol. Nevertheless, you will still find craft beer bars, cocktail lounges, jazz bars, clubs, all trying to navigate the complex regulatory scene.
It is worth noting we did not encounter a single bar using a 'price escalator' where drinks become more expensive as the evening goes on, as is known in Norway.
In Stockholm expect a bar scene befitting a capital - plenty of variety and a distinctive element too in the number of basement venues in Gamla Stan, its old town. Gothenburg and Malmo have their moments also, but as soon as you leave major cities you will run into immediate trouble finding either good bars, or a good number bars in general.
Emerging from the enlightenment (where rich liberals decided they were best placed to order the sinful working classes around), the temperance movement saw alcohol as the scourge of society, forming a major movement and voting bloc aimed at achieving abstinence via the prohibition of alcohol.
Since 1905 the government has had a monopoly on alcohol sales and even today, Systembolaget, the state monopoly is the only place in Sweden you can buy alcohol above 3.5% strength outside of restaurants and bars. This has been in place since 1917. Alcohol is sold without advertising, though in the past signs actively discouraged you from entering and making purchases.
In 1922 a national referendum proposing a total ban on alcohol lost, but only by 1%.
All of this means that indigenous Swedish bar culture, which by all accounts was reasonably lively in cities was destroyed by Lutheranism, the enlightenment and various alcohol abolitionists.
A further quirk is that no bar in Sweden is permitted to serve alcohol unless they also cook warm food, leading to bizarre scenes, such as Ivan's Pilsnerkafe in Gothenburg, where a kitchen is happily steaming away on one side of the room while clubbing goes on at the other end.
Being without a native pub culture has led to a very peculiar scene in the present day. Restaurants and bistros turn into de facto pubs later on, where you can linger and socialise. In the neighbourhoods local pizzerias take the place of pubs, while the occasional very greasy spoon location, known as a "Sunkhak" (sunk pubs) tries to bend the restaurant format into a pubbier one. Sweden has had to import pubs too. Irish and UK theme pubs play a bigger role in this country than almost anywhere else in Europe, not supplementing their bar scene but more filling a void where it used to be. An Anglophile attitude prevails all the same, and they have slowly turned these kind of bars into less tacky, themed ones. Due to the excellent English-speaking skills this is one of the easiest places to start up a conversation in a bar in Europe, barring perhaps Ireland.
There is only one exception in the country, Ölhallen 7:an in Gothenburg which by a complete quirk survived this all. They were given special dispensation by the governor to sell alcohol without a need to serve food.
The effects of this religious and moralistic phenomenon are still being felt today and no doubt will continue to for decades to come. In the 1990s movements arose like the Straight Edge scene, showing the propensity for Swedes towards drastic responses to alcohol. Nevertheless, you will still find craft beer bars, cocktail lounges, jazz bars, clubs, all trying to navigate the complex regulatory scene.
It is worth noting we did not encounter a single bar using a 'price escalator' where drinks become more expensive as the evening goes on, as is known in Norway.
In Stockholm expect a bar scene befitting a capital - plenty of variety and a distinctive element too in the number of basement venues in Gamla Stan, its old town. Gothenburg and Malmo have their moments also, but as soon as you leave major cities you will run into immediate trouble finding either good bars, or a good number bars in general.
Ratings Key (0-10)
A: Choice and/or quality of drinks
B: Style and décor
C: Atmosphere and feel
D: Amenities, Events & Community
E: Value for money
F: The Pub Going Factor
| Name | Location | A | B | C | D | E | F |
| Ölhallen 7:an | Gothenburg | 5 | 8 | 10 | 6 | 8 | 9.1 |
| Ivans Pilsnerbar | Gothenburg | 10 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 2 | 8.2 |
| 3 Små Rum | Gothenburg | 10 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 3 | 7.9 |
| Dirty Records | Gothenburg | 9 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 4 | 7.9 |
| O/O Bar | Gothenburg | 9 | 7 | 8 | 7 | 4 | 7.5 |
| Telegrafen | Helsingborg | 7 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 4 | 7.5 |
| Café Ariman | Lund | 7 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 4 | 7.5 |
| Pivo Friisgatan | Malmö | 10 | 9 | 9 | 8 | 6 | 9.1 |
| Pivo Västergatan | Malmö | 10 | 9 | 9 | 8 | 6 | 9 |
| Gaststätte Kölsch | Malmö | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 5 | 8.2 |
| Bullen - Två Krögare | Malmö | 10 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 4 | 7.9 |
| Mässingshornet | Malmö | 8 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 5 | 7.8 |
| Bar Kiosko | Malmö | 5 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 5 | 7.7 |
| Malmö Brewery Taproom | Malmö | 9 | 6 | 8 | 8 | 5 | 7.5 |
| Gamla Nobes Bodega | Malmö | 7 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 5 | 7.5 |
| Fregatten | Malmö | 8 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 4 | 7.5 |
| Pickwick Pub | Malmö | 8 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 5 | 7.5 |
| Zum Franziskaner | Stockholm | 10 | 9 | 10 | 8 | 5 | 9.6 |
| Stampen | Stockholm | 7 | 10 | 10 | 8 | 5 | 8.8 |
| Rost | Stockholm | 8 | 10 | 10 | 8 | 5 | 8.6 |
| Peppar | Stockholm | 8 | 10 | 9 | 8 | 5 | 8.5 |
| Zum Franziskaner - Bakfickan | Stockholm | 10 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 5 | 8.2 |
| Källarbyn | Stockholm | 7 | 9 | 8 | 10 | 5 | 8.1 |
| Galdrs Krypta | Stockholm | 9 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 4 | 8.1 |
| Erlands | Stockholm | 9 | 8 | 8 | 7 | 4 | 8.1 |
| Sjätte Tunnan | Stockholm | 7 | 8 | 9 | 7 | 4 | 8.1 |
| Wirströms Pub | Stockholm | 7 | 8 | 9 | 7 | 5 | 7.8 |
| Glenn Miller Café | Stockholm | 7 | 8 | 9 | 7 | 5 | 7.8 |
| Kapten Jack | Stockholm | 6 | 8 | 8 | 8 | 4 | 7.6 |
| Akkurat | Stockholm | 10 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 5 | 7.5 |
| Oliver Twist | Stockholm | 10 | 7 | 7 | 7 | 4 | 7.5 |
Gothenburg - pop 770,484
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️
Gothenburg's nightlife is to be found in clusters. Unlike Stockholm the old town (if you can call it that anymore) is not the hub of nightlife activity exactly. Instead, pockets emerge such as the area around Stigbergets tram stop, bars along and just off the boulevard Linnégatan, around the university area to the south of the old town and lastly a cluster of post-industrial bars across the water in Ringön district.
On Fridays and Saturdays these areas are pretty lively to the point where it might even be difficult getting in. However, weekdays and Sundays are remarkably quiet for such a big city. By 10pm the old town has all but gone to bed, except for one star performer. Ölhallen 7:an is one of the last few remaining native Swedish style pubs made before the temperance movement killed Swedish drinking culture, and hollowed it out to the extent British & Irish theme pubs have to fill the void. This superb central beer hall offers a glimpse at what life could have been like everywhere in Sweden and is utterly brilliant. They are the only bar in the country permitted to serve alcohol without the option to serve cooked food.
Helsingborg - pop 150,201
Nightlife Rating: ❤️
For a city of its size, Helsingborg has among the most pathetic assortment of bars I've encountered. A couple of craft beer taprooms, a few theme pubs and that really is 'yer lot'. Activity is muted, but this can be supplemented with the frequent easy ferries across the sound to the Danish city Helsingør which despite being a third of its size has about as many good bars. Between the two you can cobble together a decent day out.
Lund - pop 90.450
Nightlife Rating: ❤️
Being a student city you might imagine Lund to punch above its weight when it came to fun venues for a night out. Instead the opposite is the case. Only a few stalwarts remain. It seems most make the 10-15 minute journey by train to Malmö. Nevertheless, Lund is an almost impossibly serene city. Prosperous, green, pleasant, ordered and friendly. What life could be like for everyone on this Earth.
Malmö - pop 316,250
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️
I didn't get off to the best start with Malmö on an Easter Sunday and Monday. Slim pickings, but gradually, exploring more and more of the city I was able to build up a decent roster of bars. The main plaudits should go to Martin Axén whose Pivo chain and other bars are a huge, huge boost to the city. The central castle and harbour area liven up what is otherwise a fairly restrained old town, but with proximity to Copenhagen there is more than enough to justify a full night out here providing you choose a good day of the week.
Stockholm - pop 975,551
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️❤️
The best option for pubs, bars and nightlife in the country. This may seem obvious given it's the capital and largest city, but as we've seen, this is not always the case. Gamla Stan is the old town and tourist heart, but also host to a series of distinctive pubs set in basement cellars, something not offered elsewhere in the country or to such an extent. Variety is the order of the day too - most types of pub and bar can be found here, from palatial beer halls, stylish knajpas, craft beer bars, theme bars, Jazz bars, taprooms and all sorts else. Södermalm south of Gamla Stan is a popular area itself for bars and nightlife and should be thoroughly explored. Moving away from bars for a second too, there is a huge amount to do in Stockholm (even if hardly any of it is free) and you will not struggle to pass a weekend or even a full week happily here. Moving around the city is a joy with walkable stretches, open water and distant scenes that spark the imagination, and a modern, effective Metro. The last word goes to Zum Franziskaner, one of the finest pub restaurants in Europe.