EBG Rating: 8.1/10

Choice/Quality of Drinks:
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Mühlen Kölsch in the traditional way, gravity-poured direct from the barrel into 0.2l Stange glasses. The only pub tapping this beer in the authentic way outside Cologne. Compact selection of alternatives.

Style/Décor:
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While not intended to be a recreation of the larger Altstadt beer halls in Cologne, it instead takes inspiration from the smaller pubs you can find in the wider city such as Lommerzheim, Schreckenskammer and Em Hähnche. Red walls, a bar area raised above a long pub room with red walls. 1970s touches to the tiling and lighting.

Atmosphere/Character:
❤️❤️❤️❤️
A popular venue that straddles the line between social meeting place and diner well, without the same feeling of obligation or barrier on entrance where you’re placed at a seat. Nice and casual.

Amenities/Events:
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Food, snacks, limited outdoor space.

Value For Money:
❤️❤️
Relatively expensive. The beer, while extremely unusual is not of a quality on par with the likes of Pivo nearby.

Description:
Brainchild of Benny Mårtensson and Martin Axén, together with Peter Kroon, Gaststätte Kölsch is the only pub outside of Cologne serving Mühlen Kölsch in the traditional way, gravity-poured direct from the barrel into 0.2l Stange glasses.

While not intended to be a recreation of the larger Altstadt beer halls in Cologne, it instead takes inspiration from the smaller pubs you can find in the wider city such as Lommerzheim, Schreckenskammer and Em Hähnche. They’d have had difficulty finding a space like Früh or Päffgen anyway.

Allowing for that, service remains similar with a Kranz (serving tray) filled with Stange glasses and carried to tables.

It must be said this does not come cheaply – three glasses (0.6l) comes to around £10 as of 2026 plus whatever service you wish to add at the end. It’s Mühlen as well, not Únětický like at their Czech pubs Pivo.

Nevertheless, the same rigorous attention to detail has been applied to make their pub look and feel every inch the German Gaststätte, including some charming 1970s touches in the tiling, and a convincingly authentic bar area.

A popular venue that straddles the line between social meeting place and diner well, without the same feeling of obligation or barrier on entrance where you’re placed at a seat. Nice and casual and another well-executed and realised pub by these inspired individuals.

(Added April 2026)