pop. 13, 510
You could not wish for a more stunning backdrop. While approaching from the west, the bay of Kotor suddenly unfurls to present what seems to be a sheer wall of rock rising from the water. This small town has a disproportionate importance in what is, after all, a small country, and its old town is forced to absorb then purge thousands of day-trippers arriving by Ferry in the summer. Unlike Dubrovnik, this has not totally ruined the town, but there are signs that whatever money is coming in is not being directed towards maintaining the facilities very well.
Prone to violent thunderstorms, the stone of the old town cannot shift the water fast enough – to be caught in a rain show in Kotor is to know what a flood feels like. The locals remain calm, having seen it all before, and rock back in their seats with another glass of the tolerable, though hardly impressive Niksicko pivo. Our favourite venue, Klub Invalido is the antithesis of the pretentious tapas or caffe bar, it’s a no nonsense retired sportsmen’s bar with cheaper prices and a gruff, but authentic welcome.