Quirky, idiosyncratic and distinctive, Belgium is host to some of the most marvellous pubs and bars in Europe. As Jonathan Meades confirms in his 1994 series “Further Abroad“, Belgium being a relatively young country had the consequence of latching on to new architectural styles and movements. As so many were springing up in its ascendance, their towns are a patchworks of elegance and stridence. Somehow, the same can be said for its bars.

Belgian Cafés belong alongside European cultural phenomenons like the English pub and the Czech hospoda, providing communities with social and in many ways egalitarian meeting spaces. In Belgium’s case, many owning and running cafés are women and as a result many benefit from a feminine touch not only in their service but their appearance and atmosphere. This is something explored deeply in Regula Ysewijn’s marvellous and sadly rare/expensive book Belgian Café Culture. As the book also takes care to note – the authentic cafés, particularly those family-run are dying out, their elderly owners retiring without any succession plan. Since when it was first publish dozens feature have closed for good, and there will be more to come. Even those in cities have not proven immune, often as the landlord/freeholder cares more about rent and property value than the cultural institution existing within it.

Belgium’s eccentricity is no more exemplified than in their adventurous, thematic bars. Meades also pointed out that it was a society of collectors, and if you step into the likes of Pochenellekelder you will see for yourself. It is also a nation of artists, and the keen eye for style ranges from the elegant Verschueren to the animist and singular Le Pot Au Lait. Belgium’s repository of ‘stuff’ sometimes bleeds into the bar itself. Operations like Café Brocante in Bruges and MOCA in Ghent are shops where the décor and items for sale are one and the same thing.

An intro to Belgium could not be finished without talking about beer. The land forced Belgians to make alternatives to wine, resulting in the spontaneous fermentation method, and lambic beer with a champagne-like effervescence. The yeast culture in the Pajottenland is the precious ingredient, suspended in the air itself, the beer poured in open fermentation chambers reacting. This is then served straight, or aged and blended to become Gueuze, or mixed with fruit with all manner of beautiful and enticing results. One of the most traditional producers, Brasserie Cantillon is located only 10 minutes walk from Gare Midi in Brussels.

Then there are the Pére Trappistes, and adjacent Abbey Beers, strong ales with luxurious rich flavours. Be careful as the origin of these products range from the devout who adhere to the requirements of their monastic order and reinvest any earnings in charity, to an industrial brewery with appellation that is close to meaningless (beer brewed on or near to an abbey). Ultimately, what matters for you is how good the beer is. Highly rated special breweries like Orval and Westvleteren don’t belong in the same conversation as the likes of Leffe.

However, while Belgium offers a genuinely extraordinary range which is also easy to come by, 90%+ of beer consumed remains Pils. Usually Stella, Jupiler, Cristal, Maes & Bavik (apologies to any we missed out). Some can be bearable, or even quite refreshing in 25cl or 33cl size well-poured, particularly after a long walk or cycle ride. However, in quality they are closer to trash like you find in Southern Spain than true Pilsner as you would find in Czechia or parts of Germany.

Exploring Belgian bars and beers is one of the true highlights and rites of passage for any traveller on the continent and is a huge part of why we run our guide.

Cities

Antwerp

Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

Pop. 546,302

Famous for its docks, diamonds and De Koninck, Antwerp is almost a little piece of Netherlands overlapping the Belgian border. That curious Belgian flair persists however, and you’ll find even seemingly trad, old man pubs have unexpected elements like mannequins in wicker chairs or babies bursting through the ceiling. Ordering a ‘Bolleke’ of De Koninck will help you fit in with locals, and you may find it unusual to be in a city where the most popular drink isn’t a pale lager. Crammed with characterful brown cafés, almost every drinking venue seems to have weathered wood fittings and unique tiling.  There is craft beer to be found, as there is true working class life if you venture off the beaten path. Grand and impressive, yet somehow not yet taken over by tourists, you will find Antwerp a city in a state of flux, significant but unsure of its exact place in the world. There are thankfully many, many places to sit and ruminate on that with a tasty beer. 

Bruges

Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

pop. 127,260

The best thing that could add to the experience of wandering around the beautiful medieval city of Bruges is lively nightlife, and in that respect, Bruges doesn’t disappoint. However, bear in mind Bruges is a small city and so doesn’t have the breadth of bars, clubs and pubs you can expect in the capital. Nevertheless, you will find some historic venues and traditional pubs, along with romantic venues and canal side brewpubs, which add enough variety to keep things interesting. Bruges is now a very touristy city, but it doesn’t take long to wander off the beaten path, where you can still find one or two traditional bruin kroege– brown cafes, with their stock audience of older local folk, where the true Flemish pub atmosphere can be found – and the prices dive towards affordable.

Brussels

Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

pop. 1,199,000

While Brussels is routinely criticised – sometimes fairly, sometimes unfairly – one element you cannot criticise is its bar scene, which is undoubtedly among the best in Europe, arguably the world. Being Belgian, the drinks situation is already sorted, meaning that virtually anywhere you decide to visit will offer high quality beer and jenever. However, why settle for anywhere at random when there is such a magnificent choice? Once of Brussels quirks are its Impasses, alleyways around the old centre where you can find a host of great pubs tucked away. That’s just for starters. The brown café, synonymous with Amsterdam, also holds sway in Brussels, where you can find a clutch of traditional atmospheric venues based around the simple, successful format of cosy old brown wood and interior character developed with age. Similarly, you can also find ultra-modern venues with cutting edge beers. Nightlife continues until the early hours of whenever, and shows a city – downtrodden in places – at its best.

Ghent

Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

pop. 248,358

Often overlooked by travellers en route to Bruges from Brussels, Ghent has a magnificent ensemble of Gothic architecture in the city centre, and a charming cultural centre still frequented by locals rather than tourists. Nightlife can be sleepy and found in pockets on the wrong day, but on weekends and in high season you’ll find it packs more of a punch than Bruges. There are some terrific institutions in the city centre, and a gaggle of peculiar venues owned and run by eccentrics, which is great to see in an increasingly corporate atmosphere. Gent is also known for a unique beer style – Gruit – beer flavoured with spices in addition to/or in replacement of hops, and its central brewery is well worth a visit.

Leuven

Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️

pop. 100,200

A smaller town, Leuven’s nightlife congregates around the central Oude Markt, which, largely to attract tourists, is one of those places that likes to call itself “The longest bar”. In actuality, you will find a clutch of undramatic, samey café bars on the square, which while popular, do not fit in with the purpose of our guide. Nevertheless, there are some outstanding venues to explore which go to further lengths to add character and atmosphere to the experience of getting drunk.

Liège

Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️❤️

pop. 195,655

Liège’s cultural attractions are limited, and aesthetically, the city is messy, sometimes ugly. They decided to place many of the uglier hi-rise buildings near the river, which haven’t dated well, and the city generally lacks attractive focal points. Nevertheless, it has its highlights with some attractive hilly suburbs and the buildings around the Outremeuse which have genuine historic value as well as being distinctly Belgian. Nightlife could be more widespread for a city of its size, but what nightlife there is is well-congregated and drums up a decent atmosphere. There are some terrific traditional brown cafes and the outstanding Pot Au Lait, which, along with a plate of Boulet Frites at Café Lequet almost justifies a trip to Liège in itself. One other plus of being a bit of a dump, the prices in Liège are a fraction of what you can expect to pay in Brussels or Ghent.

Mechelen

Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️

pop. 87, 304

One of the true surprises, Mechelen boasts architecture to rival Bruges and Ghent with a medieval stone gate house, beautiful historic centre with art nouveau mixed in with stepped gables, and ornate civic buildings, along with an enormous skyscraper. The nightlife is competent, with some local brown cafés and canalside pubs where you will find better value, on account of the city being virtually tourist free for much of the year. Visit Mechelen.

Ostende

Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️

pop. 69,111

A seaside destination, with the classically careworn and past-its-best look that most North Sea resorts have. Resolutely working class in places with some truly throwback venues – simple, smoky boozers, which contrast the bright, but bland café bars nearer the promenade.