**NOW PERMANENTLY CLOSED đ **
back to Hungary
 Budapest, Kazinczy u. 55, 1075 Hungary
- Quality and/or choice of drinks â 6/10
- Style and Decor â 8/10
- Character, Atmosphere and/or Local Life â 8/10Â
- Amenities, Events & Community â 6/10
- Value for Money â 9/10
- The Pub-Going Factor â 8/10
The colour, energy and sheer distinctiveness of ruin bars should be enough to sustain any young visitor to Budapest for several visits. However, this doesnât mean that the fundamentals of good pubs should be ignored. IÂ broadly agree with the maxim ‘a change is as good as a rest’.
Wichmannâs Pub – an antithesis of a ruin bar – stands on the very same district as the original conception. As with a lot of these kind of places, itâs so inconspicuous that you could be halfway inside before you realised where you were. There’s no point building up something too much where the main qualities are simplicity and value.
Itâs worth taking a look online before you go, because many of the pictures of the pub make it look faintly modern, partly due to the shade of the lighting and texture of the wood. When you arrive youâll realise that itâs rather more traditional and worn with age.
From the street it is fairly inconspicuous, you’ll see only a golden glow of light from the exterior, through patterned tinted glass windows. Quite old-fashioned. Wichmann is one of the last original, authentic Budapest bars from before the fall of the Iron Curtain, before tourism, before capitalism, before AirBnb.
What youâll discover inside is one of the most no-bullshit pubs in the city. Cast your eyes around its ever-ageing wooden edifice, nice vaulted beams towards the back of the room and a small bar where a venerable and portly man (presumably Wichmann himself) serves you the beer.
Everything about the beer ordering, serving and presentation (or lack of it) is so many fathoms short of façade and showyness itâs endearing and actually, downright hilarious. However, dig beneath the service and youâll find many a punter going into raptures about the service and the place in general. According to WeLoveBudapest, if youâre offered a shot of palinka, it is deemed the height of rudeness to decline. There you go â you have been warned!
Wichmannâs pub is owned by a famous Hungarian Olympian TamĂĄs Wichmann, with 3 medals in canoeing, famous enough to supplant the place’s previous name âSt. Jupatâ. Wichmann himself was bequeathed the pub for his achievements instead of a pension, by virtue of how the old system was arranged for retired sportspeople.
As youâd want, demand and expect, a place like this is good value, and one of the few non-generic pubs in the district where the prospect of a good beer for a quid remains feasible. Here you can choose between a bottle of Pilsner Urquell or a German-style, Budapest-brewed Brandecker on tap for that price â not bad at all.
After service itâs really all about the drink and the chat. The more friends the merrier. Itâs one of those places that needs a few groups to drum up a merry atmosphere, that without music and conversation can be absent, but when its are kicking off, it feels like you wouldnât want to be anywhere else. That cosy glow of wood and old lights makes you feel right at home. Itâs also nice to be among a mixed crowd of different generations, rather than the exclusively under-30 crowds of most ruin bars.
You will find a small snack menu, serving only the most basic food so rudimentary as to be impossible to cook badly, all focused towards your desiring of further drinks. Meat sandwiches, schnitzel, along with chilli beans on a Thursday.
The opening hours are pleasingly traditional: 6.15pm onwards, closed all day Sunday, and yet open until 2 in the morning all other nights. A nice illustration of the mass of contradictions going on. It’s a late bar that opens when it wants to.
Youâll find it difficult to wrench yourself away from the ruin pubs but honestly, give this place a go if you fancy a calmer, more authentic Budapest pub experience. Beneath all the glitz and frantic excitement itâs nice to drill down and spend some time among locals grumbling away and propping up the bar. This is a last bastion sticking two fingers up to gentrification, and all the better for it.
Unfortunately – and this is the sad part – it appears time is running out, and the old man is due to retire at the age of 70. Wichmann‘s will remain open this summer 2018Â before closing its doors for good. It seems central Pest has no remaining call for a down to earth cheap hangout pub. It’s your last chance to be part of a wonderful tradition, as the district will never be the same again. 1987-2018Â