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Although perhaps not a holiday destination all by itself, Brno’s 🇨🇿 compact city centre, with towers, squares, castle, cathedral, armoury of interesting, hidden-away pubs and its very low-cost living makes for a great day out and easily justifies a night stop-over.
The city itself is not tourism-reliant like Prague so outside of festivals and holiday season it feels very much like a working city. However, work-hard, play-hard, right? Like quite a lot of medium-sized provincial cities across Europe, the nightlife is full-throttle, especially on Friday and Saturday night, so there’s a lot of choice available of places with a good atmosphere – the problem is more about trying to get seated.
Shall we begin?
From the train station, you must make your way north-west across the old town, but be sure to visit the main landmarks along the way: the cabbage market (the closest thing to a main square in Brno) and Svobody square (more of an expansive thoroughfare than a square) with its impressive pastel-coloured art-nouveau mansions that resemble parts of Nove Mesto in Prague. The square features a modern take on an astronomical clock that –purely coincidentally of course – looks like a giant black sex toy. After you’ve finished giggling, plot a course for Brno cathedral and climb Spilberk castle, each offering terrific views of the wider city.
After you’ve descended from Spilberk, taking a few pictures and so forth, I hope you’ve worked up a thirst. It’s pub time. Yep, Czechs don’t wait until the evening to start drinking (in fact some pubs open in the early morning when the bin men finish their shift) and the traditional ‘Hospoda’/’Hostinec’ or pub tends to twin a beer with some food. There are usually no obligations to eat though.
1. Hostinec U Blahovky 🇨🇿
Brno’s best Pilsner Urquell pub, something of a city institution.
You know what to expect – a pristine glass of fresh Pilsner Urquell served with a good 2 inches of thick head with the appearance of a layer of milk (ask for a ‘Mliko’ pour if you are feeling adventurous).
U Blahovky is a small, locally famous and – as you’d expect – permanently popular place. Make sure to turn up at 12 o clock on the dot to ensure available seating, as I honestly doubt you’ll find a place if you just rock up expecting lunch or dinner service. However, don’t be alarmed if all the tables look reserved – check the times written on the cards – if any are for 1.30pm or afterwards they will try and squeeze you in – and they will point out matter-of-factly when they need you out of there.
As with local Czech places, make sure you don’t plonk yourself on the štamgast table (usually the one nearest the bar) reserved for loyal patrons otherwise that will invoke the ire of staff and possibly one or two truculent old men nearby. These people are usually friends of the owners and have been visiting the pub for decades like clockwork, and they tend to be treated as superior beings.
Blahovky’s big event is koleno: pork knuckle. As reviews online will attest to, they deliver big portions and cook the stuff very well. A meal of this sort will set you up for the day, but don’t over-do it! There’s no rule stating you have to eat everything in front of you – and there’s a long road ahead today.
This pub is typical of a bustling neighbourhood spot – loud conversation, rapport between the servers and customers, and a down-to-earth working class feel and the sense at lunch that you’re being set up for the day. Being among that, even just for an afternoon is very special.
After reluctantly hauling yourself out of there, pop back into town to:
2. Hotel Pegas 🇨🇿
What? Why on earth would I want a beer at a bloody hotel bar, you rightly ask. Well, calm yourself. This operation has its own pub and mini-brewery which are quite separate from the hotel. You won’t be tripping over any carry cases or hordes of children – the pub stays a pub.
With Pilsner Urquell available at any given opportunity, here is an opportunity to try something else – beer brewed on site and – barring the odd shipment here and there – uniquely available at Pegas’ own pivnice.
(Incidentally: Pivnice/Hospoda/Hostinec? I initially thought there must be a distinct difference between the three, but as time goes by I must admit they are completely interchangeable)
Pegas has a classically central European feel, with dark brown wooden panels, communal tables and open plan look, with a few partitions. It is one of those places that’s newly built to look old, if you get my drift. It hasn’t quite gained the character of years but it’s a suitable venue. I recommend the Pegas Gold which is served German-style in a steinkrug with a ceramic dish underneath which collects any run off. Fresh, sweet and very easy to drink.
If you weren’t able to get food in Blahovky, Pegas is a great opportunity to do so. Getting a seat isn’t as difficult, and the food, while not perhaps a local legend, is reliable way and lines your stomach for what’s ahead.
Depending on if you’ve been working your way through Pegas’ range or not, you may want to choose this moment to have a break – head to a museum, do the underground tour, climb a tower or just smell the roses (though don’t ask me their location). I guess it must be mid-late afternoon already! Sheesh. Tempus Fugit and all that.
3. U Poutnika 🇨🇿
One of the ultimate Czech drinking pubs that rivals even some of the top places in Prague for atmosphere. Follow the link above for my full write-up. It’s another hidey-hole, situated in a courtyard area just off the cabbage market. Hugely popular and buzzy, going on rowdy, this is the typical down-to-earth pub experience you want from a trip to Czechia. Unvarnished, ungentrified, communal and fun.
The fantastic beer on offer is dispensed via the stereotypically paunchy near-mute tapster, and it’s so good that at peak time demand is such that he becomes a cog in the chain. A simple nod of the head or shout of “jedno pivo” will procure your drink. If you’re lucky enough to grab a seat the server will do the business on your behalf.
From there, simply get stuck into a conversation, or sit back and enjoy being part of a timeless atmosphere.
In recent times we’ve noticed the pub also stocking the unfiltered Poutnik which is nectar!
Don’t worry too much about volume of consumption at this stage. Most beers so far are low % and will only take your body an hour to process. However I recommend taking a bottle of water and getting a snack if you ever feel like having a break. The fun thing is that you can always go outside and see more of Brno. That’s what we’ll be doing now! Pass by Brno cathedral and drop down around the back of the park along Hybešova.
You’re entering ‘real Brno’ at this point, an unflashy neighbourhood under the watchful eye of the dreaming spires. But it’s all going to be so worth it…
4. U všech svatých 🇨🇿
With a hit of smug devilish glee, we can honestly say this is a hidden gem, one that some Brno residents have no idea exists. At first glance you may have thought this was a throwback boozer, looking at clips and images. While the bar area certainly gives off that impression, this is very much a relevant present day pub with a crowd to match. Distinctive with its mid-brown wood furniture, curved ceilings and religious iconography on the walls.
The best area appears to be around the bar and to the right of the main entrance. Unfortunately the regulars table is opposite the bar which reduces the opportunity to get a seat in the premium spot, but it is a large venue with plenty of alternatives. A garden, TV, dartboard and meals supplement the offering, which is capped off by having Poutnik beer on tap, an absolutely superb session lager, including their unfiltered version ‘Spinavy’ (Dirty) that may just top the lot.
5. U Alberta 🇨🇿
Situated at the entrance to the park up to Spilberk castle. You may have even walked past it without realising! This is another quirky location, seemingly taking advantage of an old house or disused park building to create a rustic little pub. Just like U Poutnika this one is known about locally so be prepared to sit at the bar if there isn’t room. In winter time it’s very cosy with a fireplace roaring away, and you can sup ale and watch the snacks being prepared. U Alberta’s offering focus on Czech craft beer but they’re wise enough to stock a 12 degree pale lager for those unadventurous sorts. For me, U Alberta typifies Brno – a friendly communal pub with nice people.
So, moving on, we’re walking back into the city centre to Svobody square, having passed by the enormous church of St. Thomas , but take a right as you meet the next church (St. Jacob) and look for the half circle window above the door for:
6. Posledni Lec 🇨🇿
Translating as Final Lesson, but possibly more like Finishing School.
If you’re looking for motivating for further drinking you could pretend it means One Last One! See that brown glass door to your left? That will take you to a communal entrance hall to a theatre, where the pub’s entrance in the first door on the right.
Now, just like the last pub, this place is really all about drinking, except it isn’t much bothered about offering lots of choices and the service is back to grumpy old Czech times. So choose whatever variance of pale lager suits your needs, give the server your most earnest angelic smile and take a seat up the steps near the back.
Now this place feels really old. Cranky, creaky floorboards, ancient cobwebbed grills and a vague sense of grandeur from a time, long, long past. However, this works really nicely as a pub – a hideaway feel yet pretty much in the centre of town and its used chiefly as a late night hangout spot. It opens at 5 and stays open very late.
7. Mýdlo 🇨🇿
This basement bar is truly a cult classic for Brno, around for donkey’s years and no-one can remember it ever being anything other than a scuzzy drop-out joint, but in the best possible way. A former laundry, the signage and original doorways remain in place, for a while it still offered to carry out laundry services while you waited for a beer. Why you would do that in such a smoky room is anyone’s guess. The yellow walls are a true throwback to the smoking joints of pre-ban days and a young crowd of anyone from bohemians to borderline vagrants makes a beeline for this place. There is much to love, from the steam heater kicking out warm into the main room, the fuzzy surroundings, haze of smoke and terrific beer on offer. Come home reeking but having had a cracking night out.
8. Blues Bar Traubka 🇨🇿
By this point you won’t be feeling like moving very far, and lucky for you there’s no need to. Over the road, unmarked, is this legendary late night dive bar.
A down and dirty late night scuzz bar par excellence. Battered antique furniture dimly lit in reds and yellows. Exposed brickwork and very intimate surroundings. Probably the most atmospheric venue in Brno. From the outside all looks closed but give that door another try, and you’ll be welcomed into this private feeling little den. A fantastic hang out spot that along with Mydlo makes this street somewhat notorious!
We accept no responsibility for how you feel (or smell) the following morning!
Brno’s residents sure as hell enjoy a beer or ten. If you get stuck finding a table, fortunately there are an abundance of other venues of any of these should fail.
Other Recommendations:
Zastavka 🇨🇿
Neighbourhood pub with a younger crowd and décor themed around public transport without being too gimmicky. Excellent beer.
Na Srebaku 🇨🇿
Another true local’s pub with excellent beers and a core crowd, not hostile.
U Vodicku 🇨🇿
For those seeking Pilsner Urquell, this is one of the best bets in the whole city, the pub is social and drinks focused too.
Ochutnavkova Pivnice 🇨🇿
Multitap beer specialists with ruthless approach to maintaining standards and an atmosphere that gets going later on.
U Karla 🇨🇿
Suburban pub with excellent affordable food and a classic interior.
U Daana 🇨🇿
Casual, lived-in, knockabout pub with a lot of character and strong connection to Brno’s main football team.
Na Můstku 🇨🇿
One of the few remaining Starobrno pajzls (dive bars) near town. Rough around the edges but arrive armed with a few pleasantries and you’ll find it truly authentic and Czech.
Pivni lokal U Bomby 🇨🇿
Miniature pub in the district of Kralovo-Pole, an easy tram ride away. Characterful with multitap options.
Air Café 🇨🇿
Unusual history with an RAF connection, huge rum collection and central location.
U Dvou Pratel 🇨🇿
Part of a group of good pubs in Žabovřesky neighbourhood. Simple multitap pub with modern products but a knockabout casual feel
Pivnice 8 🇨🇿
Part of a group of good pubs in Žabovřesky neighbourhood. As with U Dvou Pratel the offering is high quality and the atmosphere is fully local and casual. Basement setting.
U Čolka 🇨🇿
Part of a group of good pubs in Žabovřesky neighbourhood. A little larger than the other two, and set in a basement, expect multitap options and an entirely local, neighbourly feel.
Super Panda Circus 🇨🇿
If you fancy switching from beer to cocktails, this venue is prized for its flamboyant décor and drinks preparation.
Interested in more Czech 🇨🇿 pubs?
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