From its mountainous West to its genteel fertile East, Austria is an enigmatic place, difficult to pigeonhole. The imperial legacy has resulted in a country with a large ethnic mix, nowhere more emphasised than in the capital, Vienna. Despite this, a conservative, patrician culture and accompanying attitudes prevail perhaps on account of its pickled in aspic high society and decline from a global power to a small European state. In Vienna city centre you'll require guidance to seek out drinking holes that aren't stuffy Beisls with tablecloths, silver service and expensive dining. They are out there though, and a few remaining slices of 'Alt Wien' liven things up considerably. Further out, nightlife in Neubau and WestBahnhof is lively and you'll come to learn this is a city of neighbourhoods rather than one with a central nightlife hub. As for other Austrian cities, Linz is a potted Vienna, upright and stylish but signs of life are to be found in little clutches. Graz by contrast is one of Austria's most casual and fun cities with a distinctive Yugoslavian influence, concentrated compact city centre which acts as a natural crucible. Their 'Bauzatzlokale' kit bars are distinct to the city - informal drinking holes where you create your own meal from various components. Don't underestimate Austria as a beer destination either. While wine plays a much bigger role, Austrian brewing can be the equal of Bavaria and you will often find Kellerbier/Zwicklebier, unfiltered lager available on tap, sometimes overly light and lemony, sometimes wholesome and subtle, delicious stuff.