Our Guide to Croatia
Croatia's pub scene suffers from a combination of factors, some of which are typical to its location.
Of the culture in all the former Yugoslav states, Croatia's is arguably the most 'cosmopolitan', with Zagreb being one of the most Western-feeling cities in Eastern Europe, and the beautiful Dalmatian coast attracting tourism to rival Greece and Italy. It might stand to reason then just through cross-pollination and investment they would enjoy a good pub scene. Unfortunately, at the time of writing, that isn't the case.
The economic circumstances, hot weather and café culture dictate most businesses aim for bland something-for-everyone cafés serving breakfast, lunch and dinner so the money keeps flowing in. These are all named "Caffe Bar". Simply furnished, often tacky/uninspired décor if there is any styling at all.
It's more difficult to run a specialist venue that makes money, so this is generally what you get, particularly on the coast. Certainly you can sit around for a beer on an afternoon and evening, but you could be anywhere. The beer would have to be something exceptional for such places to be considered here. It isn't exceptional.
The few bars outside that niche tend to be either Irish themed pubs, rock bars or cocktail venues, and the nation is still seeking their own authentic translations, often wildly unsuccessfully, but not without a few successes.
Croatia's big three beers, Karlovacko, Ojuszko and Pan are all very poor lagers. The first two become wearing after the first one, and Pan starts out tasting horrible and doesn't get any better from there. The best options are on the peripheries, with Northern Dalmatia and Istria having at least some local breweries, while down south you might be able to find the slightly better Niksicko, from Montenegro. The limited selection is a Catch 22 situation. Lack of exposure to alternatives leads to a lack of curiosity, a dynamic that big industrial brewers are more than happy with.
However, this is an improving picture. Zagreb's brewing scene has taken off and in many bars in the capital - I would almost say a sizeable minority have at least one modern, decent beer available on tap, usually with a handful in the fridge. Naturally, being the capital, its bars are relatively diverse in nature, although still lacking the one killer venue, I would say.
Look around anywhere you can find for terrace venues and 'event space' type locations as there are often bars attached that have alternative scenes going on, more interesting decor and you can occasionally strike gold, such as in Varazdin.
Eateries are far more separated from drinking venues than countries like Spain and Germany. A Croatian Konoba will almost always be a restaurant and eatery, rarely ever having 'pubby' space just for socialising. The few exceptions are globalised Bar & Grill places and Tapas joints, each exported ideas.
Pivovara Medvedgrad deserve credit for punching through the serious obstacles accessing the Croatian drinking market, as you'll find their beers in bottles widely across the country. Apart from a few of their original brews, these are distinctly superior. Their Schwarzbier Crna Kraljica is arguably the best mainstream beer in the country and superior to a few native German efforts too.
Going out in Croatia is a smoky experience still, even today and many venues remain cash only, so bear in mind both factors when planning an evening out. Dalmatia is also a touristy place so don't expect cheap prices any longer in the region, increasingly difficult to find as the remaining "honest operations" by locals for locals decline as the operators retire or move on.
Overall, the best venues are the rare exceptions to the norm rather than shining examples of native culture, which is quite sad to say. There is also a lot of churn, typical of Balkans bars in general, meaning that a lifespan of over 2 years sometimes counts as a minor triumph.
Of the culture in all the former Yugoslav states, Croatia's is arguably the most 'cosmopolitan', with Zagreb being one of the most Western-feeling cities in Eastern Europe, and the beautiful Dalmatian coast attracting tourism to rival Greece and Italy. It might stand to reason then just through cross-pollination and investment they would enjoy a good pub scene. Unfortunately, at the time of writing, that isn't the case.
The economic circumstances, hot weather and café culture dictate most businesses aim for bland something-for-everyone cafés serving breakfast, lunch and dinner so the money keeps flowing in. These are all named "Caffe Bar". Simply furnished, often tacky/uninspired décor if there is any styling at all.
It's more difficult to run a specialist venue that makes money, so this is generally what you get, particularly on the coast. Certainly you can sit around for a beer on an afternoon and evening, but you could be anywhere. The beer would have to be something exceptional for such places to be considered here. It isn't exceptional.
The few bars outside that niche tend to be either Irish themed pubs, rock bars or cocktail venues, and the nation is still seeking their own authentic translations, often wildly unsuccessfully, but not without a few successes.
Croatia's big three beers, Karlovacko, Ojuszko and Pan are all very poor lagers. The first two become wearing after the first one, and Pan starts out tasting horrible and doesn't get any better from there. The best options are on the peripheries, with Northern Dalmatia and Istria having at least some local breweries, while down south you might be able to find the slightly better Niksicko, from Montenegro. The limited selection is a Catch 22 situation. Lack of exposure to alternatives leads to a lack of curiosity, a dynamic that big industrial brewers are more than happy with.
However, this is an improving picture. Zagreb's brewing scene has taken off and in many bars in the capital - I would almost say a sizeable minority have at least one modern, decent beer available on tap, usually with a handful in the fridge. Naturally, being the capital, its bars are relatively diverse in nature, although still lacking the one killer venue, I would say.
Look around anywhere you can find for terrace venues and 'event space' type locations as there are often bars attached that have alternative scenes going on, more interesting decor and you can occasionally strike gold, such as in Varazdin.
Eateries are far more separated from drinking venues than countries like Spain and Germany. A Croatian Konoba will almost always be a restaurant and eatery, rarely ever having 'pubby' space just for socialising. The few exceptions are globalised Bar & Grill places and Tapas joints, each exported ideas.
Pivovara Medvedgrad deserve credit for punching through the serious obstacles accessing the Croatian drinking market, as you'll find their beers in bottles widely across the country. Apart from a few of their original brews, these are distinctly superior. Their Schwarzbier Crna Kraljica is arguably the best mainstream beer in the country and superior to a few native German efforts too.
Going out in Croatia is a smoky experience still, even today and many venues remain cash only, so bear in mind both factors when planning an evening out. Dalmatia is also a touristy place so don't expect cheap prices any longer in the region, increasingly difficult to find as the remaining "honest operations" by locals for locals decline as the operators retire or move on.
Overall, the best venues are the rare exceptions to the norm rather than shining examples of native culture, which is quite sad to say. There is also a lot of churn, typical of Balkans bars in general, meaning that a lifespan of over 2 years sometimes counts as a minor triumph.
| Name | Location | Style | Rating |
| Libertina | Dubrovnik | Caffe Bar | 7.9 |
| Beertija Osijek | Osijek | Craft Beer | 7.5 |
| Caffe Bar Uliks | Pula | Caffe Bar | 7.7 |
| Rock Bar Mimoza | Pula | Rock Pub | 7.6 |
| Bass Bar | Pula | Neighbourhood Pub | 7.5 |
| Rak Winery | Rakovo selo | Family Winery | 7.9 |
| Celtic Caffe Bard | Rijeka | Traditional Pub | 8.7 |
| Caffe Bar Skradin | Rijeka | Caffe Bar | 8.2 |
| Book Caffe Dnevni Borovak | Rijeka | Caffe Bar | 8 |
| Pivnica Cont | Rijeka | Hotel Bar | 7.5 |
| Azimut | Šibenik | Ruin Bar | 8.7 |
| Basket Bar | Split | Old Caffe/Alternative Pub | 8.7 |
| Marvlvs Library Jazz Bar | Split | Jazz Bar | 7.8 |
| Paloma Nera | Split | Cocktails | 7.8 |
| Sistema | Split | Cocktails | 7.5 |
| La Linea | Split | Caffe Bar/Pub | 7.5 |
| Leopold's Craft Beer Bar | Split | Craft Beer | 7.5 |
| Julijan's Garden | Varaždin | Ruin Bar/Garden | 9.1 |
| Medonja | Varaždin | Pub | 7.7 |
| Medina Škrinja | Varaždin | Basement Bar | 7.6 |
| Trooper Rock Bar | Zadar | Rock Bar | 7.5 |
| Back Door | Zadar | Alternative Bar | 7.5 |
| Valhalla | Zagreb | Craft Beer Bar | 8.2 |
| Krivi put | Zagreb | Courtyard Bar | 8 |
| Čeh Pub | Zagreb | Alternative Bar | 7.9 |
| Bacchus Jazz Bar | Zagreb | Jazz Bar | 7.9 |
| Le Petit Belge | Zagreb | Belgian Beer Bar | 7.9 |
| Woody Beer Bar | Zagreb | Neighbourhood Bar | 7.9 |
| Café Cajt | Zagreb | Craft Beer | 7.8 |
| Hub Cooltura | Zagreb | Neighbourhood Bar | 7.7 |
| The Beertija | Zagreb | Courtyard Bar | 7.7 |
| Orient Express | Zagreb | Theme Bar | 7.7 |
| Kvazar | Zagreb | Beer Bar | 7.6 |
| Ambasada | Zagreb | Craft Beer/Shop | 7.5 |
| Jazz Café | Zagreb | Caffe Bar | 7.5 |
| Swanky Monkey Garden | Zagreb | Hostel/Cocktail Bar | 7.5 |
| The Garden Brewery | Zagreb | Brewery Tap | 7.5 |
| Caffe Bar Croatia | Zagreb | Caffe Bar | 7.5 |
| Mali Medo | Zagreb | Beer Hall | 7.5 |
Dubrovnik // pop. 42.615
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️
The old town of Dubrovnik is overrun with tourists and hollowed out by AirBnb/private apartments, meaning there is scant local life remaining within the city walls. The last few original bars clung on but are surely due to become extinct. Nevertheless, the environment remains vibrant, even if that is now due to the tourist dollar. Scenic, if expensive, drinking can be done at the bars around the southern cliffs, while the best bars are north of Stradun, in the alleyways and rat-runs up the hill. Prices in some places can be double what you can pay elsewhere in Croatia, but this is their premier destination and cash-cow.
Osijek // pop. 96,418
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️
Osijek's location in the badlands of Croatia's east is a disadvantage. The nearest cities - Novi Sad in Serbia, and Pecs in Hungary are close by but very poorly connected. However, with a fortress, classical Austrian era old town, riverside, and tram network there is clearly considerable potential to lift Osijek and the region from its slumber - perhaps put more than 2 buses on a week? The city, as with most away from the coast has heard of craft beer, so don't worry about finding a good drink. As for venues, these are sadly a little limited and provincial, but a few decent venues can be located to pass the time. Choose between the Tvrdja (fortress) square or down town highstreet, with two different clutches of nightlife to be had.
Ploče // pop. 9,415
Nightlife Rating: ❤️
Only a short drive (barring the inconvenient journey across the international borders of the Neum corridor through Bosnia) from Dubrovnik, Ploče is no-one’s idea of a major tourist destination, and enjoys the benefits of that: peace and quiet in the natural surroundings, local life in the town, and far more affordable prices. However, the nightlife is as drab as it comes, solidly centred on bland and smokey Caffe bars around the marina. Not much more to add than that.
Pula // pop. 62,304
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️
Pula makes for a great day out with its ensemble of Roman monuments and treasures with some quirkier attractions too. Neon-lit cranes, underground tunnels, mosaics stuck below a car park. There's plenty to do in the day. Night-time lacks a focal point however, and the tourist economy makes it tricky to find anything that isn't the typical smoky Caffe Bar or bland terrace. However, there are a few of note. One plus side is a public transport service that is modern, well signposted and relatively reliable which gives you access to Pula's suburbs without having to worry about return journeys.
Rijeka // pop. 107,964
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️
A strong Venetian influence pervades Rijeka even in the modern day, to the extent you'll occasionally rub your eyes and mentally note that you're still in the Balkans. Everything but the signage screams Italy. Rijeka is a working city whose centre is not given up to tourism, most of which is in the flash suburbs like Opatija. You'll find a good central drag, the Korso which is a match for any boulevard in the country for activity. There's a good buzz here on the evening and a solid range of bars that are pretty versatile too, from strong cocktail and wine options to craft beer, mini-breweries and characterful, atmospheric old pubs. Expectations remain fairly low for nightlife in Croatia and as such, Rijeka qualifies as somewhat of a highlight.
Šibenik // pop. 45,300
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️
Easily the most underrated destination on the Dalmatian cost, Šibenik has a similar population and topography to Dubrovnik, with attracting bay area, hilltop fortress and rabbit-warren old town. While it is more rough-around-the-edges, this is a chicken-and-egg situation that a little money would easily sort out. Nightlife in Šibenik however, is largely undramatic, with a mixture of bland Caffe Bars on the Riva and quasi-Irish pubs. Nothing exciting there. However, the standout exception is the Ruin Bar-inspired basement venue Azimut, a beautiful location in what used to be the water-storage for Šibenik’s population. Atmospheric and charming, but lacking the drinks selection that would elevate it even further.
Split // pop. 178,100
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️
Split is a lot of fun. Dip in and out of the tourist-heavy old town to find a few gems tucked away among the winding streets, then explore the activity in every day city to its North and East which is more to be found in small clusters - it isn't as widespread as Balkan's cities like Belgrade.
Craft Beer went through a mini-boom between 2017-2020 and there are breweries and taprooms to explore, while their offerings help accentuate bars which would have previously offered nowhere near as interesting selections. The good thing is that most craft beer venues in Split focus on domestic produce allowing you to sample new and exciting brews.
Cocktail venues are improving too, with the glitzy Sistema and 2024's Paloma Nera providing significant additions to Split's constellation, each in their own way.
The Caffe Bar is still the stock and trade option however, many of which are interchangeable and anonymous, so it pays to research and explore.
That said, if you're in Split for 2 or 3 days you won't run out of venues to try.
Trogir // pop. 13,250
Nightlife Rating: ❤️
Trogir’s tiny island old town is like being in a half-scale model village version of Dubrovnik. It’s charming and enjoyable, while the marina and surrounding beaches offer a beautiful setting. Nightlife is as you’d expect, a little quiet and bland, with Caffe bars either going after the middle class tourist dollar or the custom of local fisherman and layabouts - even them quietly disappearring.
Varaždin// pop. 46,320
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️
One of Europe’s little known and seldom-visited towns, you’ll find a castle, moat and beautiful old town with an Austro-Hungarian past. It is one of those low-key, enjoyable towns, but nevertheless one that comes alive at night due to the young population. Don’t expect to find many great venues, or high quality drinks, but you’ll find decent value. Have a look in some of the side alleys to find some beautiful terraces, including one that is frequented by the persecuted Varaždin Cycle Club (cycles are banned in the old town) that verges on being a ruin bar. Craft beer has reached Varaždin too, with even mainstream bars like Medonja and Medina Škrinja offering an extensive selection. Expect down-to-earth nightlife here, smokey with the full range of people socialising in the same venue, redolent of early 00s UK in some respects.
Zadar // pop 75,350
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️
Every time a good bar in Zadar opens, it seems to be closed next time I visit, yet all the bland venues pumping out Eurodance and offering the typical terraced seating and awful beers remain open – how unfair is that? There is certainly plenty of nightlife in Zadar, and unlike other coastal cities with an old town, the locals cling to it as a base for an evening out. That’s worthy of respect, but since the closure of Oktogon bar in 2016, and the on/off existence of Back Door, the city is dying out for something characterful and different to call its own. On our most recent visit the standards were slowly gradually improving but not to the extent of having much to shout about. Brlog Taproom on the mainland off the old town peninsula may be worth trying for craft beer fans.
Zagreb // pop. 801,350
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Wow, is it really that big? When in Zagreb’s historical centre, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in a small town, but it’s a big, sprawling city with lots to explore, connected reasonably well by a series of trams. Although the centre has 2 lively brewery taps and a famous street, many of the options themselves are on the bland side. The beer scene has been on the up and up in the last decade, with Pivovara Medvedgrad's wares improving rapidly in the last 10 years, several small brewing operations and the now internationally famous Garden Brewery. You can find excellent beers at the likes of beer specialists like Cajt and Ambasada, while finding great beers even at mainstream bars like Kvazar, Le Petit Belge & Woody. The alternative scene is a little fragmented, perhaps even calling it embryonic would be overstated. This is a land where everyone rubs shoulders, resulting in down-to-earth venues like Krivi put and The Beertija. Even after extensive research across the city limits we couldn't quite find that one awesome venue, but there are a host of very decent ones.
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️
The old town of Dubrovnik is overrun with tourists and hollowed out by AirBnb/private apartments, meaning there is scant local life remaining within the city walls. The last few original bars clung on but are surely due to become extinct. Nevertheless, the environment remains vibrant, even if that is now due to the tourist dollar. Scenic, if expensive, drinking can be done at the bars around the southern cliffs, while the best bars are north of Stradun, in the alleyways and rat-runs up the hill. Prices in some places can be double what you can pay elsewhere in Croatia, but this is their premier destination and cash-cow.
Osijek // pop. 96,418
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️
Osijek's location in the badlands of Croatia's east is a disadvantage. The nearest cities - Novi Sad in Serbia, and Pecs in Hungary are close by but very poorly connected. However, with a fortress, classical Austrian era old town, riverside, and tram network there is clearly considerable potential to lift Osijek and the region from its slumber - perhaps put more than 2 buses on a week? The city, as with most away from the coast has heard of craft beer, so don't worry about finding a good drink. As for venues, these are sadly a little limited and provincial, but a few decent venues can be located to pass the time. Choose between the Tvrdja (fortress) square or down town highstreet, with two different clutches of nightlife to be had.
Ploče // pop. 9,415
Nightlife Rating: ❤️
Only a short drive (barring the inconvenient journey across the international borders of the Neum corridor through Bosnia) from Dubrovnik, Ploče is no-one’s idea of a major tourist destination, and enjoys the benefits of that: peace and quiet in the natural surroundings, local life in the town, and far more affordable prices. However, the nightlife is as drab as it comes, solidly centred on bland and smokey Caffe bars around the marina. Not much more to add than that.
Pula // pop. 62,304
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️
Pula makes for a great day out with its ensemble of Roman monuments and treasures with some quirkier attractions too. Neon-lit cranes, underground tunnels, mosaics stuck below a car park. There's plenty to do in the day. Night-time lacks a focal point however, and the tourist economy makes it tricky to find anything that isn't the typical smoky Caffe Bar or bland terrace. However, there are a few of note. One plus side is a public transport service that is modern, well signposted and relatively reliable which gives you access to Pula's suburbs without having to worry about return journeys.
Rijeka // pop. 107,964
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️
A strong Venetian influence pervades Rijeka even in the modern day, to the extent you'll occasionally rub your eyes and mentally note that you're still in the Balkans. Everything but the signage screams Italy. Rijeka is a working city whose centre is not given up to tourism, most of which is in the flash suburbs like Opatija. You'll find a good central drag, the Korso which is a match for any boulevard in the country for activity. There's a good buzz here on the evening and a solid range of bars that are pretty versatile too, from strong cocktail and wine options to craft beer, mini-breweries and characterful, atmospheric old pubs. Expectations remain fairly low for nightlife in Croatia and as such, Rijeka qualifies as somewhat of a highlight.
Šibenik // pop. 45,300
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️
Easily the most underrated destination on the Dalmatian cost, Šibenik has a similar population and topography to Dubrovnik, with attracting bay area, hilltop fortress and rabbit-warren old town. While it is more rough-around-the-edges, this is a chicken-and-egg situation that a little money would easily sort out. Nightlife in Šibenik however, is largely undramatic, with a mixture of bland Caffe Bars on the Riva and quasi-Irish pubs. Nothing exciting there. However, the standout exception is the Ruin Bar-inspired basement venue Azimut, a beautiful location in what used to be the water-storage for Šibenik’s population. Atmospheric and charming, but lacking the drinks selection that would elevate it even further.
Split // pop. 178,100
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️
Split is a lot of fun. Dip in and out of the tourist-heavy old town to find a few gems tucked away among the winding streets, then explore the activity in every day city to its North and East which is more to be found in small clusters - it isn't as widespread as Balkan's cities like Belgrade.
Craft Beer went through a mini-boom between 2017-2020 and there are breweries and taprooms to explore, while their offerings help accentuate bars which would have previously offered nowhere near as interesting selections. The good thing is that most craft beer venues in Split focus on domestic produce allowing you to sample new and exciting brews.
Cocktail venues are improving too, with the glitzy Sistema and 2024's Paloma Nera providing significant additions to Split's constellation, each in their own way.
The Caffe Bar is still the stock and trade option however, many of which are interchangeable and anonymous, so it pays to research and explore.
That said, if you're in Split for 2 or 3 days you won't run out of venues to try.
Trogir // pop. 13,250
Nightlife Rating: ❤️
Trogir’s tiny island old town is like being in a half-scale model village version of Dubrovnik. It’s charming and enjoyable, while the marina and surrounding beaches offer a beautiful setting. Nightlife is as you’d expect, a little quiet and bland, with Caffe bars either going after the middle class tourist dollar or the custom of local fisherman and layabouts - even them quietly disappearring.
Varaždin// pop. 46,320
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️
One of Europe’s little known and seldom-visited towns, you’ll find a castle, moat and beautiful old town with an Austro-Hungarian past. It is one of those low-key, enjoyable towns, but nevertheless one that comes alive at night due to the young population. Don’t expect to find many great venues, or high quality drinks, but you’ll find decent value. Have a look in some of the side alleys to find some beautiful terraces, including one that is frequented by the persecuted Varaždin Cycle Club (cycles are banned in the old town) that verges on being a ruin bar. Craft beer has reached Varaždin too, with even mainstream bars like Medonja and Medina Škrinja offering an extensive selection. Expect down-to-earth nightlife here, smokey with the full range of people socialising in the same venue, redolent of early 00s UK in some respects.
Zadar // pop 75,350
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️
Every time a good bar in Zadar opens, it seems to be closed next time I visit, yet all the bland venues pumping out Eurodance and offering the typical terraced seating and awful beers remain open – how unfair is that? There is certainly plenty of nightlife in Zadar, and unlike other coastal cities with an old town, the locals cling to it as a base for an evening out. That’s worthy of respect, but since the closure of Oktogon bar in 2016, and the on/off existence of Back Door, the city is dying out for something characterful and different to call its own. On our most recent visit the standards were slowly gradually improving but not to the extent of having much to shout about. Brlog Taproom on the mainland off the old town peninsula may be worth trying for craft beer fans.
Zagreb // pop. 801,350
Nightlife Rating: ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Wow, is it really that big? When in Zagreb’s historical centre, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in a small town, but it’s a big, sprawling city with lots to explore, connected reasonably well by a series of trams. Although the centre has 2 lively brewery taps and a famous street, many of the options themselves are on the bland side. The beer scene has been on the up and up in the last decade, with Pivovara Medvedgrad's wares improving rapidly in the last 10 years, several small brewing operations and the now internationally famous Garden Brewery. You can find excellent beers at the likes of beer specialists like Cajt and Ambasada, while finding great beers even at mainstream bars like Kvazar, Le Petit Belge & Woody. The alternative scene is a little fragmented, perhaps even calling it embryonic would be overstated. This is a land where everyone rubs shoulders, resulting in down-to-earth venues like Krivi put and The Beertija. Even after extensive research across the city limits we couldn't quite find that one awesome venue, but there are a host of very decent ones.