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The Lowdown
A large, somewhat notorious city with a landscape that is very much the product of blights inflicted on it throughout the 20th century. Grandiose communist projects, much Brutalist and in poor condition, unloved graffitied waterways, and a classical old town, Lipscani that although full of potential suffers from dilapidation and tacky commercial enterprises. Strip-joints, garish Bistros with staff giving the hard sell on the streets and mysteriously boarded up buildings that in other cities would be prime locations. These all make the area a big question mark. Visiting on a wet November for example, the impression would be strongly negative.
In amongst those issues, it must be said that there are real gems and attractions that stand up to the rest of the continent. You won’t run short of activities. Infrastructure is gradually improving, with the Metro, tramlines and buses decent as well as affordable. The feral dog issue which plagued the city up until the 2000s is long gone and you are highly unlikely to encounter any during your visit if you are in the central districts.
As far as the bars go, as with the rest of Romania there is no real ‘pub’ as such, other than imported ex-pat type sports bars which are to be avoided. However, Bucharest does have a distinctive frequent theme, bars situated in historic mansion houses. You’ll find a warren of rooms which are decorated in line with the surroundings, usually with impressive tiled steam heaters, which can range from the bourgeois to alternative and anything in between. Many are ‘Garden Bars’ with large courtyards which fill up in summer. The majority are located in the Armenian Quarter North East of the old town. The road layout in this old neighbourhood is asymmetric and the streets are generally quiet too. Suddenly a thriving bar will emerge from the dark and the silence.
There are some adventurous cocktail bars which are good fun, and a word should go out to the craft beer scene in the city which is pretty vibrant and will keep you occupied for a weekend. Even if their venues tend not to be standouts, they are at least better than most of the trashier options in the centre.
In short, if you know what you’re getting into, Bucharest can be a fun and enjoyable trip.
The Route Map:
We begin in the city centre at one of Eastern Europe’s most famous beer halls, before taking in a few other central bars. Then, we take an anti-clockwise route into the Jewish and Armenian quarters to various courtyard/garden bars, before swinging around to the centre.
Stop #1 is Caru’ Cu Bere
Strada Stavropoleos 5
This 19th century beer hall is of very rare quality in Eastern Europe and for spectacle, it’s among all of Europe’s finest. Enter through revolving doors to be met by its Neo-gothic interior. Cathedral-like, drawing your eye towards colourful stained glass at the rear of the room. In front of that, altar-like is positioned an island bar.
Cloistered ceilings, portals and balconies with frescoes of historic scenes. It is both fanciful and extremely elegant, taking in Art Nouveau influences of the era.
While an eatery, you’ll find it fairly relaxed & communal. Once seated you can continue drinks after a meal too. House beer origins are technically opaque but all signs suggest it is brewed by Ursus. Thankfully they offer Pilsner Urquell on draft in superb, basically Czech level condition.
Originally opened as a brewery in 1879, nationalised in 1949, restored extensively in 1986 and returned to family ownership in 1999, subject to further renovation works. It is a survivor, to be sure.
Along with typical hearty Romanian dishes, you’ll find evening folk dances in the cellar and classical musicians performing throughout the week.
Service varies a little from the listless youths to more old school patrician hospitality from the experienced staff.
The only downside is the pricing perhaps doesn’t match the quality, though there isn’t huge disparity and you are somewhat paying for the one-off environment here too.
Soaking up the surroundings and atmosphere it seems baffling, almost impossible to believe either that this was purpose-built or that it has survived to the present.
Sure, a venue of this sort is going to attract mass tourism, and with that there are some hazards. But only the most pig-headed modernist stylists, penny-pinching misers or narrow minded of contrarians could deny that this place is a gemstone, a cultural icon that almost makes Bucharest worth visiting for alone. Given you will be lining your stomach for the day ahead, it’s the perfect place to start.
As you leave Caru’ cu bere, if you haven’t already, turn back for a glimpse at its edifice and ornate wrought-iron awnings. Then, if you can dare prise yourself away, wander east down the street, passing the Stavropoleos monastery. A small chapel but one that shouldn’t be missed for its beautiful frescoes. Pop your head in! Whenever you’re done exploring the old town, it’s Beer O’ Clock. No, literally.
Stop #2 is Beer O’ Clock
Strada Gabroveni 4
Other than mainstream capital city centre pricing, not much else at Beer O’ Clock resembles the typical offerings in Bucharest’s old town Lipscani.
That feeling is so strong that is almost feels like they may have chosen the location by accident.
Nearby the strip clubs, trashy late bars, ex-pat sports pubs and assorted Instagram chasing twee bistros, Beer O’ Clock feels like an unwanted sibling. It is instead, an important refuge in a tacky area.
Low-key, Belgian-bar influenced one room boozer with understated wood fitting and typical brewery signage for decoration.
Behind the bar, 10+ taps of Romanian craft with one or two Belgian and German options on rotation, with a row of fridges for alternatives.
Being open plan, it can be quite a vacant space during the day, reliant on custom to drum up some atmosphere, but it’s a good bolthole even when quiet.
Service is friendly enough, and if you’re into sampling local and national beers from smaller independent breweries, or need a respectable and non-garish central option (more difficult than it may appear), this will be a must do.
It’s a hop-skip-and jump to the next venue, which opens at 4pm, so be aware to time your visit appropriately! If you’ve messed up and are here way too early, perhaps try Ground Zero Taproom nearby.
Stop #3 is Niște Domni și Fiii
Strada Covaci 7
The name translating to ‘Some Gentlemen & Sons’, you’ll see when you arrive the name is at least partly ironic or at least self-deprecating.
With its pub cats, train sets, old books, local art, and assorted bric-a-brac, this old town bar feels like a misfit in a mainstream commercial area.
While not exactly an outsider bar (nothing could be in such a location), there is a kind of pugnacity to their setup that absorbs and occasionally repels the worst aspects of the city centre.
Interesting music and two floors of casual off-beat alternative lounging can be enjoyed. There’s a strong feeling of authenticity which prevails and given the location it ought to be celebrated.
After a leisurely start, strap your walking boots on as we head east outside the old town. A walk up the not so spectacular Bulevardul Corneliu Coposu awaits, before turning off onto Strada Matei Basarab. At the roundabout, a right and a left takes you to the next stop, in an unassuming backstreet location.
Stop #4 is CIZ Wine Bar
Strada Ceauș Radu 7
This begins the core section of Bucharest’s nightlife offerings. The area to the east of main road dissecting central Bucharest is studded with old mansion houses whose leafy courtyards and abandoned interiors are ripe for conversion to alternative-feeling hangout spots.
Accessible by tram and near the museum of Romanian records (worth looking in), this low-key, backstreet venue has had a previous incarnation before being reimagined as CIZ.
A slightly more formal venue, but without pressure to dine, their selection of Romanian wines are the focus, to be drunk in an environment of deliberate homeliness, reflecting and complimenting the townhouse layout and age of the building. Try a Fetească (white or red) to taste something particular to this country.
You won’t be coming here to dance, but a relaxing hour or so can be had in the ease of the setting, which is well attended by helpful staff. Note the courtyard and garden which in Spring to Autumn comes alive.
We travel North now into the Armenian quarter along Strada Sfântul Ștefan which eventually breaks into a roundabout with a small park in the middle. Typical of Bucharest’s backstreets and evening vibes, which is appropriate given our next stop!
Stop #5 is Grădina Olari
Strada Olari 8
Olari is a typical example of Bucharest’s courtyard bars.
While some veer towards alternative or at least eclectic, Olari has a bit of a balance. More money has been spent which shows in the upkeep of the garden and its interior. Grădină, meaning garden, is something you will notice on signage around the city.
Inside, there’s a very pleasant space of exposed wood beams and fairylights, with musical instruments in the corners.
Even the drinks selection is a halfway house between mainstream and alternative showing they’ve paid attention to where they’re pitching this.
The reality is, the venue just works, and works well too. You could visit throughout the year given the pleasant pub interior and leafy courtyard for summer, whether for food, or music or drinks and socialising.
It also feels relatively detached from the hustle and bustle of central Bucharest and a world away from the old town.
Stop #6 is Boogie Bar
Strada Popa Petre 36
Now the evening is in full swing, a great venue to experience the atmosphere of a typical Bucharest garden + mansion house bar is Boogie Bar. It’s not far from the last place at all, just a few minutes walk.
One of the more alternative, down-to-earth offerings. Inside, rock n roll memorabilia set across a warren of rooms in a converted townhouse.
Outside, street food vans and a second terrace bar give it a Hungarian ruin-pub feel in, particularly in the summer. They put up covering and heaters in the winter too – on weekends the outside remains busy and popular.
Drinks are relatively mainstream but with some craft offerings – overall it’ll pass, but potential to be tweaked a little.
The atmosphere is homely and super social, which is its greatest asset, even attracting a slightly wider range of ages which is notable in a country which at times feels like it isn’t even legal to go out after dinner if you’re aged over 30.
Now it’s time for a walk, but the reward at the end will be worth it, I promise. North-west through the cobwebby tangle of streets in the Armenian quarter, you’ll notice the shabby chic start to give way to some rather more well-maintained and palatial buildings east of the Piata Romana. In this area, a little apart from the main cluster, is one of Bucharest’s best.
Stop #7 is Lokal
Strada Mihai Eminescu 57
You’ll see that this is a more homely, alternative, common-room, eclectic sort of operation.
The patio is of course atmospheric at night and excellent in winter, but enter the house to find the desired warren of cosy, convivial social spaces, which over time you can gradually pick your favourites. A friendly, inclusive feel with a mixed crowd – younger of course, and very much a refuge from some of the harsher edges of the city.
Even the beer selection is superior to the usual – don’t expect 20 taps of Romanian craft but some decent choices here and there, including bottles of Franconian kellerbier help things along nicely.
A real must-see in Bucharest, don’t hesitate to drop by.
The final stop brings us back towards the city centre. South west, crossing Bulevardul Nicolae Bălcescu, the main North/South thoroughfare in Bucharest. It’s not a looker.
It’s time for a nightcap. Somewhere a little more clandestine, rarefied. A little special too, frankly.
Stop #8 is Frank
Calea Victoriei 45
Based in the arcade overlooking an impressive brick church, the Biserica Kretzulescu, you could easily walk past without realising.
It’s an unmarked bar with blackened windows just before you reach Artichoke Bistro – the people you see gathering outside are at Artichoke, not here.
The door to the bar has a coin slot which takes only 50 Bani coins. You will need at least one each to enter. The machine sometimes doesn’t work either, so resort to banging on the door if needed.
Inside, you’re in a high ceilinged, Modernist Deco space with striking curves. It’s purposefully dark, super dark lit only by candles across antiquey tables. There’s a magnificant cabinet behind a bar, which is lit and so really catches the eye.
Warm and cosy in the winter, but it’s no alpine Inn, this is an arch-stylised cocktail bar aiming at the cutting edge – too cool and above the mainstream, and hoi polloi, so it thinks. The fact the atmosphere is warm and clandestine reduces the risk of the business coming across with icy angularity.
Despite the obvious pretension that has inspired this bar, their efforts succeed handsomely in the execution.
High quality wines and cocktails from a purposefully stripped back menu are superb and accompany the rarefied air.
For a high quality evening drink and a sense of woozy, low-lit detachment from the city, you will struggle to do better in the capital.
Should any of the above 8 venues be closed or full we have a series of recommended backup venues for you!
Other recommendations:
Teoria
Armenian Quarter, so another converted mansion house becomes a bar? Ding ding, correct.
Teoria is a cocktail bar set on the 1st floor of a historic townhouse.
Inside, twirls of neon lighting span the ceilings of each of the several rooms like a snake, with a neat feeling of connecting spaces you can’t even see – quite effective.
Some of the house’s original features such as the glazed tile steam heaters (very common in Bucharest) remain in place, so the combination of history and modernity both clashes and blends in a way you’d more likely find somewhere like Italy.
The drinks are real showstoppers. Along with a stock menu and offer to make any regular cocktail of your choosing, they put particular thought into themed menus on a seasonal basis. On our visit, cocktails inspired by infamous closed bars in Bucharest and the stories surrounding them proved perfect. Made with panache and real creativity, they are superb and command your attention.
Although it was quiet on our winter visit, the experience was enjoyable enough that to leave was a real drag.
Service is friendly and chatty too which helps keep you feeling connected and well attended to.
A must for cocktail fans.
BEAT Bar Umanist
Culture centre set in an unlikely location, you will probably take a specific trip on the bus out here. It’s away from the typical bar areas in the Armenian quarter and, culturally, a world away from Bucharest’s old town Lipscani.
The alternative scene is alive and well here, offering space for classical dance, small gigs, and all kinds of cultural meetups. There’s a popular front courtyard and a series of rooms for socialising in that feel like common rooms. This is modern Romania’s reaction to having little pub culture to speak of (that isn’t imported).
As a result, it feels incredibly informal, and as you walk through the areas you can take in so many different things in one evening.
Prices are pointedly fair, with the basic offering almost the cheapest you will find in most Romanian cities, to decent/passable German lager. The bar area itself feels – as these often do – like a necessary evil, and it appears there is some voluntary work involved to keep this going.
If you’re into courtyard bars and want to experience what’s really happening in the city from the people actually living in it, who are trying to participate in an alternative rather than to impress people, this is the place to be.
15A
The area to the east of the main North-South road dissecting central Bucharest is studded with old mansion houses whose leafy courtyards and abandoned interiors are ripe for conversion to alternative-feeling hangout spots. 15A is a bar-bistro where food does play more of a role than most, but we found it actually less foodie and more bar-like than expected.
The outdoor courtyard played a big part – not much used in winter due to lack of cover, but popular from late Spring to Autumn. Inside there’s a well curated interior of antique furnishings and sympathetic artwork and painting across the typical townhouse layout of rooms.
Service is pleasant and there’s an ease to the place, a lower key venue than most.
While the drinks selection tilts towards wine, there’s only a limited selection by the glass and alternatives were limited too – so there’s an area for improvement.
Address the drinks and make the purpose of the venue clearer for an even higher score.
Ironic Brewery Taproom
Post-modern taproom that belongs to an era past the kind of in-your-face Brewdog-esque attention seeking that you’ll find elsewhere. Industrial aesthetics fade to a kind of Scandi ‘we’re over it’ vibe. Beers priced by the 100ml from boards labelled Departures and Arrivals. Murals. A canteen feel unfortunately, but the sour beers are well worth a try.
Ground Zero Taproom
Suffers from Brewdog-apeing syndrome with cocky marketing and seen it all before branding (which is ironic given the brand statements claim that’s exactly what it isn’t doing). However, decent beers, a rather striking ceiling feature and the convenience of a central location with good opening hours make this modern taproom worth knowing about.
Trei Bețivi
Record store, rock club and courtyard with a down-to-earth social scene, somewhere you can getting chatting to people easily. Cards, board games, smoking (yes, I have to reveal that) and some of the cheapest tap beer in the city, alongside a fridge full of Romanian craft beer.
Hop Hooligans Taproom
One you may well have already heard about. Effective marketing and breaking early into international markets, these guys run a taproom in the Armenian quarter with plenty of choice. It is still set in an old mansion house but has the predictable craft beer aesthetic applied. Still, there is some character remaining from the bare bones. Service is disinterested, prices are high, but the courtyard and the beer are not without merit.
Pardon Pub
A reasonable option to drop by for a quick drink. Convenient location breaks up any journey between districts North of the centre, good opening hours make it practical too. The beer selection is a good balance of German styles and Romanian craft and it’s a well-lit venue with a good tempo to it. Points down for some of the most generic/inane signage you’ll ever see, and too many high tables. Service is friendly though.
Some other decent-looking bars we know of: Quantic, Heavy Yard, Zeppelin, Anagram, El Maduro
Interested in more Romanian bars?
Head over to our Romania page!