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The Lowdown
Málaga’s modern reputation as the gateway to the clubs and holiday resorts of the Costa del Sol has somewhat obscured a fine city with many easy to reach attractions that is both pleasant and practical. A reasonably central airport connected via an underground connects to the central station under the Guadalmedina river, more or less onto the central boulevard, the Alameda Principal where you can reach the marina, central park, cathedral, market hall, Roman theatre, Alcazaba fortress, bullring, Arab baths and any number of museums and art galleries on foot. You will quickly wonder how all of this became buried under the battery of package holidays!
The bar scene is colourful and varied with a number of distinctive historic institutions, modern craft venues and some quirky standalone exceptions thrown in. The tapas bars live by their own rhythms and can become thronged with people at certain times – be wise to that and plan to visit as things are getting going. Don’t expect too much in the way of freebies – this isn’t Granada, however it is still a reasonably affordable place to go out.
Andalusia is famous for vermouth, sherries and various alternative fortified wines that all require experimenting with, while outside of specialist beer bars, the options is normally restricted to one cold pale lager, in Málaga’s case almost always Victoria, however the rise of IPA is applying a degree of pressure to offer alternatives.
Shall we get started?
The Route Map:
Stop #1 is Antigua Casa de Guardia 🇪🇸
Alameda Principal 18
A historic (est. 1840) local institution that will appear in every guide book – and for good reason, because you will not find a venue quite like it. Well-worn and characterful, this one room space, a former guard house for the police, with two entrances at either end of a long hall is effectively a tasting room for various fortified wines. Huge barrels line the walls and waiters in white shirts scurry to and fro. Bills are drawn up in chalk on a wooden counter and people gather around to drink and chat (standing only). While there is a tourist trade, in the off season this is very well balanced with local life too. The service has a tradition and rhythm with bell rings for each tip adding to the feeling of ceremony. A couple of vermouths will set you back a few euros at most. Simply the best possible way to get started, though we wouldn’t blame you if you decided to end the night here either – but let’s continue!
Exit either onto the boulevard or, if you wish to take a detour, poke your head in the old Mercado Central de Atarazanas (market hall) which is only 50 metres away. When you’re done, head down the main street to the city centre’s focal point, the Plaza de la Marina. Take in the marina and beautiful city park if you like, both well worth your time. The way to our next venue is via the city’s main commercial street, Calle Marqués de Larios with its grand mansion houses and gleaming pedestrian walkway. Here you are, this is central Málaga! Carry on up the street and take a right turn at Moreno Monroy to our next stop.
Stop #2 is La Farola de Orellana 🇪🇸
C. Moreno Monroy, 5
There is something enjoyable about waiting with others for a bar to open. You might think that a rather sad comment, like a granny queuing half an hour before a garden centre opens. But here the popularity springs from affection and limited space. Make sure you’re in the queue to grab the best tables opposite the bar where you’ll be treated to tapas and typical drinks. The tapas isn’t free – this isn’t Granada – but it is generous for the price. While drinking, nibbling and chatting the place fills up ever more steadily and the staff respond in kind, upping the tempo, the rhythm and ritual itself worthy of respect. For a tapas bar in Malaga you could barely do better. On several days during the week the bar closes to restart and refresh before its evening service.
As you depart, it may be a good time to visit Malaga’s cathedral, one of many attractions in easy reach in this incredibly practical city centre!
Stop #3 is El Pimpi 🇪🇸
C. Granada, 62
The big name in the city, even with some competition in Casa de Guardia. The wall of fame attests both to its history and magnetism. When you’re here it’s easy to see why. Vivid greens and blue hues in a warren of rooms, some with bars, some with dining space, along with large barrels and plants. A lot of money flows in and out. While the touristic aspect inevitably spoils the experience to a degree, the overall impression is positive. The two bars allow anyone to turn up, lean and socialise with a drink, and there remains a casual feel to the place in spite of its fame and food service, meaning this comfortably qualifies as an inclusion on our guide.
El Pimpi overlooks some of Malaga’s main sights – the remains of its Roman theatre and the spectacular Alcazaba and Castillo, which shouldn’t be missed!
When you’ve had your fill of epic sea views, monuments and sunshine, drop down to one of Malaga’s main thoroughfares Calle Álamos, heading north west to our next stop.
Stop #4 is Central Beers 🇪🇸
C. Cárcer, 6
A reliable post-millennium craft beer bar with a modern US taproom style appearance and focus on Belgian and German ales along with some contemporary craft options. Much of it feels familiar but the execution is good enough to feel welcoming and appealing. While such a venue may not set hearts alight with passion, there is something to be said about a beer specialist in a country where nearly all pubs have a maximum 1 tapped lager as standard. Central Beers displays a versatility and reliability, while avoiding many of the typical pitfalls and that elevates it beyond the norm. Get ready for a healthy scoop of nuts to go with your beers too!
It’s a short walk up a gentle incline and around the corner to one of central Malaga’s best known and well loved bars!
Stop #5 is La Tranca 🇪🇸
C. Carretería, 92
La Tranca could be one of two things, a beautiful characterful tapas place with a fresh relevant feel, or that place where you had to stand boxed in like sardines. Yes, if any venue is oversubscribed, this is it. We recommend visiting a little earlier where you can breathe in, and some of its subtler charms are more apparent. Friendly service, some quirky tapas options, IPA on draft (this counts as a minor miracle in a traditional Andalusian tapas bar), nice tiled walls and 70s records pinned to the wall. It’s a great place. A local institution but one that may leave you gasping for air if you visit at the wrong time. Luckily Colmado 93 is only a short walk away if that happens. Speaking of which….
Stop #6 is Colmado 93 🇪🇸
C. Carretería, 93
This dinky tapas bar fills up quick but is worth persevering with as it is really a classic, ur-typical example of a Southern Spain tapas bar. Traditional interior with high ceiling, wood fit bar and a little bit of stained glass in there for good measure. Stools and leaning posts only. Extremely informal, largely about standing around, chatting and nibbling, the place has been around long enough to have clearly developed a bit of a rhythm and reputation which it knows. Rhythm of service adds a flair and panache to the experience. It will be intimidating to a first time visitor but the best advice is to just get stuck in! Don’t stand on ceremony!
The little lanes of the old town on the way to the next venue should now be buzzing and pleasant to meander around and get lost in – but keep a close eye on your map! You could easily take a wrong turn and miss this next place, which would be criminal.
Stop #7 is Taberna Cofrade Las Merchanas 🇪🇸
C. Mosquera, 5
A characterful, brilliant bar dedicated to the Easter Parades and adorned with quirky Catholic kitsch (some of it downright sinister). There’s a strong, heady atmosphere with burning incense and endless brass band music. The bar is to the left of the entrance with a tiled taberna to the right for more formal sit-down meals, pleasant in itself. A broad suite of typical Spanish offerings from beer, fortified wines, normal wines, spirits and mixers. Very popular and on arrival you may notice queues – this is for the restaurant side. Don’t be confused, go straight in to the bar pictured below – for this side you don’t need to queue.
Stop #8 is La Casa Invisible 🇪🇸
C. Andrés Pérez, 8
And finally! La Casa Invisible is a cultural centre and commune in dispute with the city administration, and assisting others fighting eviction. The bar is set in its courtyard, a green and tastefully decorated natural crucible with colourful artwork and a fountain. The nuts and bolts are as basic as they come. Grab a couple of plastic chairs from the stack, buy some bottled beer or box vermouth from the kiosk and sit around and chat. Stripped back to its very core, this is socialising at its heart. The venue runs community events, art space and live performances in the adjoining building. It’s a gem in the heart of the city, with an alternative feel and local crowd tempered by the fact it has achieved some mainstream popularity.
Should any of the above 8 venues be closed or full we have a series of recommended backup venues for you!
Other recommendations:
Birras Deluxe – 🇪🇸 – Birras Deluxe concentrates on delivering quality product, and unarguably offers a fantastic selection of beers as its strongest suit. However, with pleasant (if overly brightly lit) décor, a few amenities and reasons to stick around for a chat, the overall combination succeeds and makes it a definitely stop off for any beer lovers visiting Malaga, along with locals seeking a change from the typical Iberian tapas places.
La Madriguera 🇪🇸 – Among Malaga’s stronger craft beer bars, this place is hyper casual with a ska punk aesthetic, strong range of craft beer, and international food menu underscoring that the place could literally be anywhere in the world. However, credit where its due, the execution is effective despite being hampered by an ungainly space to work with.
Little Delirium Tako Bar 🇪🇸 – Modern corner bar with street food vendor and modern, up to date beers with TV in the corner. International in character, pricey but well located.
La Destilería 🇪🇸 – One of the city’s foremost cocktail bars with a higher concept than most. Excellent reviews.
The Pharmacy 🇪🇸– One of the city’s premier cocktail spots with a higher concept than most. Excellent reviews. Dusky, vintage furniture and floral decor.
Recyclo Bike Café 🇪🇸 – Bicycles on the wall, arty and collegiate in feel with some superior bottle options, at least by normal Andalusian standards. Well-reviewed.
Moonlight Malagueta 🇪🇸 Casual beer bar on the promenade with a large fridge selection. Inside is pubby with cream walls, framed nik-naks, etc. Drinks-focused.
Bar Emily 🇪🇸 – Superbly cosy looking bar with framed photos covering walls. Situated near the Bullring and a shortish distance from the centre.
Interested in more Spanish bars? Head over to our Spain 🇪🇸 page!