A Day Out In Copenhagen

The Lowdown

Denmark’s famous 21st century export is the concept of ‘hygge’. At least, it is commercialised into any product that could possibly attach itself to what it means. In truth, ‘hygge’ culture for Danes has a meaning, a mindset that runs far deeper than some cultural appropriation to sell scarves and coffee tables. The feeling of contentment, belonging, of homeliness, warmth, togetherness gives an identity that helps enshrine a sense of collective, in contrast to the stark individuality you’ll feel in other countries.

Danish pubs, in particular the Brunt Vaertshus, or ‘brown pub’ (also often names Vinstue or Bodega) feel like the distilled end product of this mindset, and they are very, very different from the cutesy merchandise hawked to the public. Working class, with a mixed crowd of ages and backgrounds, often smokey, but also very homely, social and welcoming. Their informality and friendliness will leave an impression every bit as strong as your clothes will smell in the morning!

Copenhagen is the biggest collection of such pubs on the planet; this is one city that has retained its corner locals pretty well. A large, sprawling city with distinctive neighbourhoods that can be traversed via a reliable, modern public transport system with ease.

Our tour will focus on the central districts, but bear in mind there is plenty of reason to explore the likes of Frederiksberg, Nørrebro and Amager for bars too. Now, shall we begin?

The Route Map:

The general shape of the route begins in the fashionable Meatpacking District, works towards the train station and Tivoli, before taking a right turn to the harbourside, Christiania and Christianshavn before working back into the very centre of town to finish. Bring water and snacks with you and take a pause whenever you feel like it.

Stop #1 is Fermentoren 🇩🇰

Halmtorvet 29C

A famed Meatpacking District craft beer bar with pleasant beer garden and candlelit poky interior, Fermentoren makes no concessions in its offering of very high quality craft beer. That you’ll be paying an arm and a leg for it is already accepted, so bear this in mind. There’s no point spending your time in Denmark overthinking the money liberally being deducted from your account. Switch that side of your brain off and simply enjoy the fact this bar has supreme offerings in a pleasant environment.

Spring lounging on the terrace is a must, as is joining the throng on a busy winter evenings. In between those peaks it can feel a little cold inside in winter months seemingly with only the candles for warmth.

A clear mark better than the many corporate craft bars out there with their derivative template, this is a bar with its own identity regardless of its superior drinks offerings, something worth your attention.

Head North East along the main road towards Copenhagen’s main station, passing by the warehouses of the Meat Packing District which then leads to the red light district area. It shouldn’t be too seedy at this time of the afternoon however. Facing the south west entrance of the station is one of Europe’s most distinctive venues – this is our next stop!

Stop #2 is Jernbanecafeen 🇩🇰

Reventlowsgade 16

One of Europe’s famous drinking destinations, the Railroad Pub, located around the rear entrance of the main station is nothing less than a city institution as well as one of Europe’s finest station, or station-adjacent pubs.

The Railway theme bursts forth onto the street – this is no shrine to minimalism. Cute, twee, but cosy and very social, as an introduction to the Danish pub it represents one of the most vivid as well as a high watermark in general. Your eyes will dance across the room at the displays, from the wall of nik-naks to an operating train set, nothing is left to chance. Rich lounge reds decorate the room, each seating arrangement designed to maximise space.

There is a cheerful verve to the place at any time of day with customers enjoying the novelty.

Pass by Tivoli, an old amusement park occupying prime real estate directly opposite the station. There is little else like it in such a central position in Europe and it feels, overall, more like something you’d expect to see in America. Take a right over the Langebro to the waterside of Sydhavnen. Smart, old, stylish townhouses line the street opposite the small dockside park, and contains our next venue.

Stop #3 is Café Haraldsborg 🇩🇰

Islands Brygge 15

You will not find a more typical example of a Danish brown pub/bodega, or whatever you want to call it in this area of Copenhagen than Haraldsborg, and is an excellent primer to help understand the style. With a husband-and-wife team, and friendly regulars there is a more personal feel on afternoons here than some of the other bodegas around Copenhagen.

This is not to say the others are unfriendly by any means – only that this quality adds a certain something. This is a vividly Danish experience. With smoking permitted and a homely interior, you can be assured of a throwback experience.

The interior is well curated with retro beer signage typical of Danish pubs, low-lit lamps and booths. There is a sense of calm and cosiness in the afternoon, but don’t be fooled this is only a middle aged hangout. Like many of these places it can spark to life in the evenings – some will be surprised to see it stays open until 2am most nights – this is not even unusual for the city, but typical.

As well as all the above, the basic wares on offer at Haraldsborg are fairly priced meaning this is one Danish pub that isn’t going to be plundering your wallet.

So, we’ve visited 3 very different venues so far, all of which are still distinctly Danish in character. Let’s make it 4, as we walk into Christiania. Beginning in the early 1970s as a hippy squat, the following decades have seen it consolidated as a commune – not necessarily approved of but tolerated. Inevitably associated with sale of drugs (although the infamous Pusher Street has been ended altogether), there is a character to the place that livens up Copenhagen every bit as much as other similar areas around Europe – Berlin, Ljubljana, Vilnius to name a few. Our next venue is at the heart of the commune.

Stop #4 is Woodstock 🇩🇰

Mælkevejen 87

A stalwart of Christiania, pavements and roads give way to dirt tracks as you wander along art-lined passageways and old streets long passed into the commune’s hands. Despite a friendly feel there remains a bit of an edge here and there, for reasons to obvious to repeat.

Woodstock is the social drinking epicentre of Christiania and maintains reasonable pricing – admittedly for basic drinks. A large, sturdy wooden construction with an interior bar that is decorated in an almost stereotypical dropout/druggy way, the toilets vividly riffing on that further.

On summer evenings the terrace, colourfully lit is an absolute must, as the sounds and smells drift across from other buildings, and the complex feels like part of a coherent whole. A great time to visit is now, as afternoon slides into evening, subtly changing the character and colours.

Be careful to tread lightly on Christiania though, and treat it respectfully.

Christiania is only a small part of the district of Christianshavn, an area with its own distinct character, linking the commune to the city centre. Part of an old fortress complex split along 7 or 8 islands, there is much to explore, but our job is to shepherd you to the next bar, a cult classic!

Stop #5 is Eiffel Bar 🇩🇰

Wildersgade 58

Although records show the building operating as a bar since the 1700s, this operation, “Eiffel” dates back to the 1970s. Throughout, vague (but probably correct) assurances are that this was a sailor’s hangout in Christianshavn.

There were efforts to rebrand it to become a high society Parisian style café. The customers did not arrive, so it reverted back to its roots, yet with the French decor and signage intact.

These days it is a dive bar. Let’s stop pretending: this place is a god damn low-down smokey boozer with cheap prices and an excellent, bordering on sordid atmosphere. There’s a sense that all involved, from staff to customers are aware of their complicity, adding a patina of transgression on an already vivid tableaux.

Even though the pub is ‘known’, you’ll still find many locals here. Late opening 7 days a week ensures custom is spread out over the opening hours and rhythms of the day.

During the afternoon there is a sleepy, deeply atmospheric inertia as light is filtered through tinted glass to dimly illuminate old wood fittings. In the evenings it can become bustling, raucous and vibrant. Both are, in their own ways excellent moods to capture.

The drinks selection is basic, a little above perfunctory, but some back bar concoctions can be rustled up. Their own label beer brewed by Hancock is a minor novelty.

An essential stop-off for anyone remotely interested in sampling, perhaps even understanding Danish pub culture. There is no point dipping your toe in the water here, you have to dive in and fully immerse yourself.

We move now to the heart of Copenhagen, north towards Kongens Nytorv, the iconic central square and thoroughfare with landmark buildings like the Kongelike Theatre. Perhaps take the opportunity to visit the main photo opportunity, the beautiful townhouses and boats at Mindeankeret in Nyhavn. After you’ve finished posing for the camera, double back to the square, where one of the most famous pubs in Copenhagen awaits.

Stop #6 is Hviids Vinstue 🇩🇰

Kongens Nytorv 19

To be a standout institution in a city dotted with them is a noteworthy achievement. Prime location assists, as does its famous smorrebrød mornings. The pub and its terrace facing the square heaves with people seeking these open-faced sandwiches, beer and/or homemade gløgg (mulled wine). This spills out onto the street After this, the pub settles down.

Founded in 1723, dating back to when Nyhavn was a working port, it is fair to say the most notable thing about the pub is that it has survived. Fires, wars, modernisation. It is still here.

Step in off the street into a series of compact, cosy rooms. The bar on your entrance is particularly characterful and worth spending some time to assess. Then you have a choice of lounges to position yourself, in among a classic ensemble of wood fittings, heritage framed photos, browns and greens. The clientele and service is a dead giveaway of its fame – middle-aged, middle-class groups, served by patrician no-nonsense servers (although these are Danes, not Czechs so for some people they may still seem relatively pleasant).

Protecting businesses of this kind is still a concept in its infancy around Europe, but Hviids has been a beneficiary of initial efforts by the city council, providing an assurance of sorts the business will survive for a long time to come.

Watch out on Sundays, as they close up at 8pm unlike the late opening hours of other days.

A venue that has that sprinkle of stardust.

You’ll be relieved that the bulk of the walking is over, with the next two venues close by. Pass through Strøget, Copenhagen’s main shopping street, taking a right turn walking towards the ‘Round Tower’, a lookout point with a corkscrew path rather than stairs to the top.

We’ve had old smoky dives, novelties like rail station cafés and hippy communes – now it’s time to get back to the finer things in life: high quality beers.

Stop #7 is Charlie’s Bar 🇩🇰

Pilestræde

A dinky little bar that will make you rethink the role and possibilities of the ‘theme pub’ in city centres. Normally the prospect of a British pub abroad would be a signal to steer clear, or at least leave the locals to it.

Charlie’s rips up the corporate template, offering both high quality independent brewed beer, including several cask lines – which are immaculate – with an intimate, social, pubby environment that comfortably clears the low bar set by the average theme pub, while setting the marker very high in general.

Charlie’s was a precursor to the craft scene, but has survived and thrived intact, without making needless concessions to its identity. In all of Copenhagen there are very few bars that can compete with the whole package.

Stop #8 is Bo-Bi Bar 🇩🇰

Klareboderne 14

Dating from 1917, the bar claims to still be fit with original décor from that era. You’d struggle to argue otherwise as you enter a space of rich reds, lamplights, old paintings and old wood, with its faded splendour lending the place an atmosphere that falls somewhere in between prim literary café and sleazy dive without ever really being either.

Bo-Bi Bar is located opposite Gyldendal’s publishing house with its impressive angular facade comprising the view out on to the street. It is almost part of the bar itself. As a consequence, Bo-bi has traditionally been visited by writers and famous/evocative enough to be used as the location for Christian Braad Thomsen’s 1998 film The Blue Monk.

An environment that belongs to the sound of slow jazz, the mood is so horizontal during the afternoon that sometimes minutes pass between thoughts as you are lulled into a slumber, with the gentle ambience noise of rustling newspapers, adjusting of seats and glasses lifted and replaced.

This is only half the story, as Bo-bi ups the tempo in the evening, and the crowd graduates to a younger one.

Although classed as a Danish ‘brown pub’, Bo-bi feels more distinctive, less of an out and out boozer than most that fall into that category. It is a lost in time café bar with a close to matchless atmosphere.

Drinks are basic and in bottles, though there are some independently brewed options outside the usual Carslberg/Tuborg stranglehold. For snacks, a boiled egg may be brought forth.

Smoking is permitted, they greatly prefer cash payment and use of mobile phones for anything beyond reading is frowned upon.

Like Au Daringman in Brussels, the bar is staffed with such care and character it feels like the bar and they are connected.

A clear standout destination that cannot be missed in Copenhagen or indeed in Europe, where it belongs in the pantheon with the very best.