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The Lowdown

Set in a steep valley along the Nervion river, Bilbao is not only its metropolitan centre but comprises sprawl of districts that stretch from further up the slope to the east right to Getxo on the Bay of Biscay. Connected by an effective, clean, efficient and affordable Y shape metro network which make more distant places feel part of a contiguous whole.

Famous for Basque independence, steelworks, shipbuilding and Athletic Bilbao (whose colours you will find in almost every bar) this is a proud region with a solidly working class heritage. Visiting brings to mind the similarities it shares with the likes of Porto, Newcastle and Genoa.

Basque is widely spoken but the city is dual-lingual. For visitors, you will find most transactions in Spanish with greetings, etiquette and the occasional vernacular spoken in Basque. Although locals will certainly disagree, your experience (bars, museums, tourist activities) will be that Basque is punctuation and adornment in and around the Spanish used.

On to the bars, Bilbao’s famous draw is pintxos, mini-dishes ordered to accompany a drink. These are displayed on a counter at the front for you to inspect. They are often unmarked and you will have to inspect them carefully or ask. The old notion of pintxos where each plate would be pierced with different coloured flags which you collected and paid for at the end is long gone, and we saw this system nowhere in Bilbao.

A common drinks order is a glass of red or white, or a beer (for a small beer order a zurito (200-250ml) as opposed to a caña which in Bilbao is more like a copa doble serving elsewhere in Spain (300-400ml). Large beer servings are possible, but uncommon. As usual, Vermouth is popular too and specific bars are known for house preparations. Jerez sherries and other fortified wines feature prominently which shouldn’t surprise either. Don’t overlook Sidra, which is a common Basque drink poured in elaborate style. Out of town cider houses, Sagardotegi are essential for local flavour. Please note Sidra is most popular during winter months in Basque country.

Pintxos culture makes bar surfing quite common, so like the bars of Andalusia it is customary to hop from place to place rather than getting a reservation and remaining somewhere for the evening. Prices remain fair. If we put a price here it would go out of date quickly, but generally speaking you’ll pay similar for a drink as for the pintxo.

Although Bilbao obviously does have a tourist season, it is striking just how few tourists there are even by late autumn. You will find locals occupying even the most central, historic and typically touristic spots in the old town and Plaza Nueva and in the commercial centre. This is a positive not only in order to experience its flavour, but it makes service and pricing fair, with locals quickly calling out any over-charging or scams. Service is not as bright and breezy as other places, and you may encounter occasionally sullen staff, but overall it is straightforward. As with other Spanish cities, bars are busy and bustling – do not be a shrinking violet – get in there and tell the server what you want. A long weekend allowing you to explore the districts like Barakaldo and Getxo is easily justified.

The Route Map:

We begin this tour – where else- but Casco Viejo, known in Basque as ‘The Seven Streets’ (Zazpikaleak). Exit the Metro station onto the Miguel Unamuno Plaza where you’ll be greeted with the typical tall houses with colourful window boxes, and a square with plenty of activity. Street sellers and people gathered outside drinking, chatting and nibbling on pintxos.

It’s a short walk across the square, past Bacaicoa Taberna (a back up option if any of the below fail) to our first stop.

Stop #1 is Bar Fermín

Iturribide Kalea 6

Set on the corner of Miguel Unamuno Plaza, the gateway to Bilbao old town, it is heartening to see a local’s pintxo place occupying prime position. To be honest, we visited this place on a whim noticing the busy scene out front and unpretentious interior.

Fermín are notable for one of Bilbao’s more famous dishes, the ‘sushi’ Bacalao which is served with pepper, though for safety we opted for the equally famous Bacalao Pil Pil, which is delicious. Forget social climbing, forget Instagram, forget trying to impress people, and get back to basics. Good food in an authentic folk environment.

Although it could pass for older, Fermín has been around for over 40 years and maintains a solid reputation. You’ll find a lamplit bar area with the available pintxos displayed in counters along the bar. The interior is plainly decorated with football colours and basis tiling, but works to reinforce its humble nature.

Service is approachable and helpful, but don’t be afraid to get stuck in – get to the front and make clear what you are looking for.

Wine and beer are equal partners here, with vermouth and sherries available but probably outside the usual remit for this working class establishment most of the time.

It’s refreshing to go somewhere so central and find a place that has not been scarred by tourist churn, or at least picks itself up after the summer to return to normal. Long may that continue.

No old town exploring is complete without a diversion to Plaza Nueva, the hotbed of pintxos culture in Bilbao, with its grand covered archways and hillside vistas in the distance. A pleasant stroll can be enjoyed day or night. But let’s get moving south east in the direction of the cathedral…

It’s a small old town and Bilbao’s alleys pass quickly, so be careful you don’t overshoot!

Stop #2 is Bodega Joserra

Artekale 35

Set in a narrow side alley in the heart of Casco Viejo, Joserra is the type of business that could only be where it is, yet in this day and age seems an unlikely find.

One of the most straightforward, unpretentious and honest businesses you’re likely to find. A solidly working class bodega that focuses on affordable booze and freshly made sandwiches. A drink and a sandwich as of 2025 did not push above 5 euros.

It’s a one room boozer in traditional style, something of a saloon with rustic fittings and patterned tinted glass windows at the front.

You’ll find everyone here from workers in overalls grabbing a lunchtime snack to the occasional tourist who has found out about the place on social media.

Service is typically Basque – straightforward and no-nonsense.

In 2024 they celebrated their centenary, over 100 years of providing something so simple that meets the needs of residents and visitors alike.

Original bodega rules permitted the owner to sell wine but not to be consumed with food like a tavern, and he was fined for trying. However, they allowed him to apply for a tavern license and as you’ll notice, the application was not refused.

Joserra was the owners son, and family ownership was retained by his son Imanol until the early 2000s after which it has been leased before being taken on by José Garcia, the husband of Imanol’s daughter. He is one part of a double act who serve customers throughout the day.

For its rare working class format in the heart of a popular area where such places are thinning out, it offers something you will not easily find elsewhere. In its true simplicity and honesty there is an authenticity, a defiance, a stubbornness that is endearing and somewhere where it is genuinely difficult to haul yourself away from without staying for a 2nd or 3rd drink.

The route to our next three stops takes you past the Cathedral. There is a charge for entry and in all honesty, not one of Europe’s most impressive. Nevertheless – It’s there! Head west intersecting the famous ‘seven streets’ where we dive deeper into the pintxos scene.

Stop #3 is Saibigain

Barrenkale Barrena 14

Trading since 1952, Saibigain provides the visual touchstone for what visitors expect to see when entering a traditional Spanish bar. That is to say: Exposed beams, hanging hams and a long busy bar of people chatting, nibbling or trying to be served.

It’s a bar with spectacle and that includes the entrance which is adorned with Athletic Bilbao memorabilia, very much the leitmotif of the city’s bars.

An array of pinxtos stretched along the bar, shielded by the folk gathered around makes selecting look like you’re inspecting a police line-up, but it’s all part of the fun.

Saibigain trades on classics like croquettes and is known for stuffed peppers too, but options extend to full sized dishes, ‘raciones’ which can be shared or enjoyed on your own.

Despite marketing itself as a restaurant the format and atmosphere is far too formal to even begin to consider it as such. This is a bar! Casual, chatty, noisy and fluid, with basic seating and an absence of formalities.

As a consequence of its position on one of the original ‘7 streets’ in the Casco Viejo, this is undoubtedly one of the more popular spots. Visit in summer and you’ll find yourself among many tourists. Visit early spring or late autumn and the locals have returned to reclaim it.

With a minor sense of its own importance, this is a rare example among Bilbao bars of puffing its chest out (think the likes of Rinconcillo) although not overly distracting.

If you simply want a rich dive into what central Bilbao’s pinxtos scene is about with a bit of history all around you, this is as good a place as any to live that.

The ground floor of Iñakiren Taberna next door offers a traditional pub with super basic wares (meat, cheese, bread) and operates as a backup option. But it’s only a short stroll to our next stop.

Stop #4 is Xukela

Txakur Kalea 2

While there’s a charm to being in a throng of people in a little bar, variety is the spice of life and it’s nice to find a pintxo bar with a little more breathing space and a more pubby feeling environment.

Xukela is a distinctly more relaxed affair in personalised surroundings. Less of the harsh strip lighting, none of the cheek-by-jowl sardine can experience. With its own cabinets of nik-naks, posters and framed artwork, this is a venue that’s decided to put an imprint on the scene.

Here’s where you can unwind with friends, with ample seating in an environment which invites you to linger longer. Yes, they prepare pintxos and have a spread on offer throughout the day.

Bilbao’s pub scene is a lot different depending on the time of year of your visit. Average reviews speak to occasional issues at busier, more touristy times and as such some locals have been sniffy about it.

By contrast, in November the area is light on tourism and we felt the environment was very pleasant and worth spending time in.

Our next stop is but 1 street along, parallel and the edge of the old town near the Nervion river.

Stop #5 is Taberna Basaras

Pilota Kalea 2

Where Bodega Joserra on the other side of Casco Viejo offers humble goods at great prices in an unpretentious environment, Taberna Basaras aims to provide high quality wines at affordable prices in an environment that is still comfortable, informal and traditional. They are fascinating counterpoints showing the variety of the pintxos scene.

A very small venue but with a brisk trade, your best best for one of the few seats is early afternoon as it moves towards siesta time.

The wine selection by the glass is one of the best of the traditional old town bars and it is a joy to explore them at a fair cost. Pintxos vary over the course of the day depending when the kitchen produces them, but they are known for their anchovies specifically.

Basaras has a history too, dating from 1946. These days it wears the history lightly, clearly of an age but not trying over-hard to trade on it. Traditional in style but smartly fit, there is a contemporary relevance to it with a nod to its past.

The small size produces that intimate hypersocial feel you get from Spanish bars where you reach over shoulders to grab dishes, stand cheek-by-jowl with strangers and are in the middle of a throng with conversation flying back and forth.

At this point we break from our trip through Casco Viejo and follow the river around North, crossing Areatzako Zubia bridge to Abando, Bilbao’s commercial centre. Flat land, wide boulevards and a typical late 19th century early 20th century ensemble. The views of the valley and city are worth pausing to take in, particularly the grand frontage of the Abando train station. It’s a short walk to our next stop – one of Spain’s most famous bars.

Stop #6 is Café Iruña

Colón de Larreátegui Kalea 13

Among the grandest cafés in Europe, let alone Spain, the visual spectacle on offer at Iruña is in itself reason to visit.

Quite obviously, being a famous city centre institution comes accompanied with a few hazards, and this is why the reviews are OK rather than stellar. Visiting Bilbao out of season however is still an experience where locals take back the city from tourists. Visiting even in late autumn you can find this stunning bar filled with Bilbao residents.

Established in 1903 and comprised of two rooms, a tiled bar with gorgeous, sumptuous painted murals around a horseshow bar, then a grand café area with high ceilings, stunning polychrome designs which are apparently in Mudejar style, more commonly associated with Andalusia. A blend of Islamic, Gothic and Romanesque styling. Put simply, it’s an incredible space to come, and you can pop by anywhere between 9am and midnight, making it a versatile venue.

This is Bilbao so pintxos is a big feature of the bar, and their headliner, Pintxo Moruno (lamb skewers grilled on coals) are well worth dropping by for between 6-7pm on the evenings. If that’s not your thing, the remaining selection is broad for most tastes.

There is a fairly compact selection of simple wines to choose from and the typically spartan beer selection, though they are equipped for alternatives, it makes more sense to have the busy staff prepare something simple.

For Bilbao bar culture, Café Iruña is its Guggenheim, even if the extravagance hails from a long, long time before that came along.

We’re doubling back slightly to our next stop simply because we are now taking a break from the endless nibbling – evening is approaching and time to enjoy a few drinks without plates of bread shoved in your general direction. Take a note of Mumbo Jumbo Craft Beer Taproom and Kubrick as backup options if the last or next place are closed.

Stop #7 is La Barmacia

Villarías Kalea 5

Travel Europe widely enough and the ‘converted pharmacy’ bar is a concept you’ll find as far as Valencia to Turku. Normally the appeal stems from the bespoke ornate wood fittings and other lavish artistry that has been a feature of historic apothecaries.

Barmacia wants a slice of that action, and as you enter you’ll be impressed by a fanciful and flamboyant expression of wood fittings from floor to ceiling.

Gin specialists with a cocktail range, not bad beer selection (by mainstream Spain standards) and competent back bar of alternatives.

Out of season it is not particularly touristy here, service was straightforward and we encountered no problems but for constructive criticism, the operation could benefit from a little finesse to compliment the surroundings.

All the same, it’s a distinctive, fanciful and memorable place and worth dropping by once you’ve had your fill of Pintxos.

Our last stop involves a walk through the centre of urban Bilbao, not long, but enough to absorb some sights and sounds of the commercial core, past the pleasant palm tree studded Albiako Lorategiak park and close to the busy Moyúa interchange. Turn north for our final stop!

Stop #8 is Residence Kafetegia

Barraincúa Kalea 1

By a distance Bilbao’s most impressive cocktail bar, and one of its best late bars full stop, this is a place to come later on when you’re finally done with the pintxos and seeking something different.

An impressive wall of whiskies is the emphasis, but in the absence of a menu, you can ask them to make you anything. The place itself is personalised with some Irish pub ephemera (rather than itself being an Irish pub), rugby and, unexpectedly, Sesame Street.

With muted and tasteful lighting, the atmosphere is intimate, but not hushed, with a throng around the bar with plenty of conversation and late night high spirits.

Residence also provides a convenient option for an area of the city centre which may have other bars but not of the same level as Casco Viejo.

Should any of the above 8 venues be closed or full we have a series of recommended backup venues for you!

Other recommendations:

Café Rasputin

Among Bilbao’s one-offs, Rasputin is a hint towards the impressive collection of Soviet iconography which is framed across the walls of this tiny bar. Not content with that, the owner Paco has decided to amass the largest selection of vodka in any bar in Spain.

Very much a Basque evening bar all the same, with pintxos early on, a social scene and an idiosyncratic feel that makes the experience the antidote to any corporate businesses.

Due to the interior it’s enjoyable whether busy or quiet, although your flex for being surrounded by Communist propaganda will signpost how much you’ll personally get out of the visit. 

15.000 Hops

A metro journey from central Bilbao (15 minutes) to the district of San Vicente de Barakaldo.

Since 2016, 15.000 Hops has provided not only Barakaldo but wider Bilbao with specialist beers from across Europe on tap and in can and bottle. The options alter frequently but the standard is generally excellent.

As a venue, it’s a cute, colourful little bar with a distinctive personality, added to with a small terrace out front.

This is Spain after all so don’t think its drinks only. Beers are complimented by dishes like Nachos, cheese platters and sandwiches.

Barakaldo is easily reached by Metro from basically anywhere in Bilbao and offers a distinctive suburb with its own personality, one that this bar has made feel suddenly quite cosmopolitan, but retains a small, indy feel without lofty pretensions.

Avenida Taberna

Set in the hilly, and quite Projects-style district of Ibarrekolanda, stepping off the Metro at Sarriko feels like the Spaniards have had a crack at building an American city centre. Wide boulevards, high-rise and precincts that seem to date from the 70s and 80s. Avenida is tucked by a forecourt and most easily accessible from the main road, rather than walking into the high rise complex, round and up the stairs as we did.

There are the city centre pintxo bars then there is this. A genuine district vibe with people you can tell may not frequent city centre places as a matter of course but stick those those locally.

That doesn’t make it unfriendly, not a bit of it. Barely an eyelash was raised as I entered. As usual with Spain, the staff are busy, they want to know what you want and are eager to help.

Avenida serves casseroles (to order ahead), typical pintxos with nice Tortilla, and on Sundays they deep fry squid and prawns which are fabulous. Wash these down with the humble beer and wine offerings and all is well with the world.

They appear to manage a local syndicate so you’ll find the latest updates on boards on the walls, while the general café surroundings have been personalised. The double-team working the bar have their own patter too which adds to the distinctive nature of the place.

This is somewhere if you want to get off the beaten path and find a truly local bar, to experience life unspoilt by tourism. Due to Bilbao’s excellent Metro it’s very easy to reach.

Aterpe

A metro journey from central Bilbao (15 minutes) to the district of San Vicente de Barakaldo.

There comes a time on an evening out around Bilbao when you want to end the pintxos nibbling, up the tempo and some evening fun and drink a beer that actually tastes of something. Sliding neatly into your inbox is Aterpe, a bar that doesn’t really get going until after 10pm.

Solidly down-to-earth, but energetic and social, this is a vibrant hangout with an uptempo rock soundtrack, and bunker-like interior which feels like any indiscretions are being hid from the outside.

As well as the dive bar dynamic, Aterpe have seen fit to provide good beers too, both of the region and more widely. 6 or 7 taps offer a range of ever-changing options, which are of a level that they genuinely stand out in Bilbao for the time being.

With a lack of pintxos, your snack needs are covered by a hamper of assorted garish looking corn snacks, which feels appropriate for this ‘who gives a f—‘ type hangout.

Café Bar Bilbao

Set on Plaza Nueva, the heart of Bilbao old town and its pintxo scene. Beautiful frontage with tiled interior, specialising in seafood pintxos.

Victor Montes

Set on Plaza Nueva, the heart of Bilbao old town and its pintxo scene. Beautiful frontage and upscale interior. Wide variety of high standard pintxos and kind service, for which you pay a little more. Smart and upright, this is one of the more formal places with an audience to match.

Taberna Basterra

A metro journey from central Bilbao (15 minutes) to the district of San Vicente de Barakaldo.

A lively, high-energy punky late bar to drop in later on when you’ve had a few. Alcohol will take the rough edges off what is a dynamic dive with a punk rock soundtrack, normally a good laugh, perhaps one where you may have to swerve the occasional drunk.

For those into such places, this delivers. Forget the pintxos weighing you down and move on to the late evening. Listen to some music, grab a bottle and let your hair down.

What earns this place a spot (just) is it offers something usually found in a city centre, whereas this bar shows Barakaldo in particular as a capable district for a night out in its own right, elevating Bilbao above many other cities of its size.

Bodega Indautxu

Neatly situated near to Indautxu stop, here is another patrician establishment pintxo bar with a core crowd of locals. Quite an approachable, friendly and sociable spot decorated traditionally with local heritage on the walls.

Interested in more Spanish bars?

Head over to our Spain 🇪🇸 page!

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